VV,
In my post I  said we heated the parts. Warm is the better word. The
solution seemed "to take" better when the parts were warm to the touch.  As
I recall.
MS

On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Vinyl Visions <[email protected]>wrote:

>
> If you go to a sporting store that sells guns and supplies, "Super Blue"
> (not Perma Blue) works great for oxidizing parts and no heating is
> necessary. It works great for aging back steel parts after cleaning off rust
> and buffing them. It also ages brass...
>
> > Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:43:32 -0800
> > From: [email protected]
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Victor R
> >
> > Gosh am I in trouble. Brice and I did my R years ago. Brice used to be my
> > paper boy (cute kid) after Jerry Blais quit the route. Well as I recall
> we
> > started with the original copper base and heated it up and but brown gun
> > bluing on it. After it dried we used an electric draftsman eraser to
> remove
> > the brown "bluing." It was an easy effect to reproduce. If you screw it
> up
> > just add the brown back in...A Dremel should do the trick with a mild
> > cutting rouge. Brice jump in here son....
> > The job was a lot of fun. After about 15-20 years you can hardly tell it
> > wasn't factory. You could chuck a pencil in a drill..!
> > MS
> >
> > On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 7:01 PM, Ken and Brenda Brekke <[email protected]
> >wrote:
> >
> > > Mike,
> > > Any suggestions on how to do it?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ken
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [email protected] [mailto:
> [email protected]]
> > > On
> > > Behalf Of Mike Stitt
> > > Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 5:04 PM
> > > To: Antique Phonograph List
> > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Victor R
> > >
> > > It is not a hard finish to replicate and can be fun to do.
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
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> > >
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