This is great stuff, People, I really appreciate it!
 
There's a lot going on right now so...  I don't know if it is  something I 
can jump to now... BUT, you are sharpening my interest immensely,  and it 
makes me feel this is something I could tackle with your guidance.   Maybe 
this ol' pup can learn a new trick!  
 
Tomorrow, I'll check out whatever ID the machine is harboring, and  report 
back.  I'll take a picture of it, if it would  help.  Forgive me for not 
paying attention to the site format  here, but isn't there some way now to 
upload a picture of it so you  can see it?  
 
Thanks Again!
 
: )
 
Edward
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 9/3/2012 10:34:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[email protected] writes:

Further  to Al's comments, if your Admiral was made before 1946 it won't 
appear in SAMS  Photofacts (which started that year), but may appear in the 
Rider Perpetual  Troubleshooters manuals.

Your model number might also appear on a  printed paper glued to the inside 
of the cabinet, underneath.  Whether  plaque or paper, it should clearly 
show the word "Model" in front of that  number.  Other numbers might only be 
patent dates or chassis  number.  In some cases the chassis number is used in 
lieu of model  number, to locate the schematics.  It will be marked 
"Chassis" or simply  "Ch." in front of the number.

Frankly though, for your Admiral none of  this should be needed.  The loud 
hum problem you describe is cured simply  by matching the replacement filter 
capacitor values to the original  specs.  Your originals are likely two 
capacitors that are combined in one  cylindrical cardboard unit, rated between 
30 and 50 microfarads at 150 volts,  for which a pair of commonly available 
modern replacements of 47 MFD at 160  volts will work.

Distortion can come from degraded smaller capacitors  in your unit as well 
(the little wax covered paper cylinders in the range of  .01 to .05 MFD 
typically), as well as a degraded cartridge.  First step  in determining 
whether 
these are further issues is to replace those larger  filter capacitors and 
see if that clears up the problem.

If you can  solder properly (even many repair shops turn out questionable 
solder work),  you can make this repair yourself.  If you'd like to attempt 
it feel free  to get in touch with me outside of this forum if you like, and 
I can advise  you further on the parts, the replacement procedure and proper 
solder  technique if needed.

Thanks Al for the reminder of the hot  potentiometer shafts on the Edison 
C2.  I wonder if my C4 is that way  (have never thought about it).

Andrew


On Sep 2, 2012, at  11:15 PM, [email protected] wrote:

> 
> 
> Greetings  Edward:
> 
> I do all my own restorations.  When it comes to  anything electronic, the 
first thing you need to know is the model number and  serial number.  From 
that you can get to step 2, finding a schematic  diagram.  I would recommend 
Peter Wall in San Francisco but he is a long  way from you.  There must be 
someone in your area who will do the  restoration but likely any 
professional will charge a hefty fee.  The  model and serial are likely put on 
the back 
of the cabinet or on a plaque  attached to the radio or amplifier chassis.
> 
> Andrew is quite  correct about the capacitors being dead.  The speakers 
of that era used  the field coil for a choke (inductor) to smooth out the 
rectified DC in the  power supply so when the caps are dead you get 60Hz hum 
coming from the  speaker.
> 
> You really should never apply full operating current  to any old TV or 
Radio that hasn't worked in years.  Bad things can  happen quickly to delicate 
components.
> 
> Shops specializing in  old electronics often have Photofacts or Wiley's 
service bulletins.   Again this starts with the model number.
> 
> Lastly, don't go  poking around when the unit is powered up.  Some units 
like my Edison C2  have HOT potentiometer shafts.  I can tell you that to 
have a few hundred  volts surge through your body is no fun.  These old units 
are best safely  brought up in line voltage slowly with a variac and made 
more safe with an  isolation transformer.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Al
>  
> 
> 
> 
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> http://phono-l.org
>  

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