The chips can be repaired, normally the chips are in the front and back where
people tried to pry the reproducer out of the carriage.
JB weld or a similar epoxy, I use steel putty, returns the top shape to round
and a chrome paint makes it match a bit better. I use a large carriage broken
in half courtesy of UPS to as a jig to fix the chips. You put Saran Wrap on
the carriage so the epoxy will not stick to the carriage and put the Saran Wrap
on the top of the epoxy to smooth the repair.
This is something an average person can do, I am not that dexterous. With Swiss
files you can match the rim on the late dome tops and smooth the area to match
on the flat top. I am certain John could match the missing letters and sign
his name on the side, but I am not that good.
Ron Sitko is having new tops made, he estimates around $75 for each one.
Some people do not realize the O N R and S all have the same top, the serial
number is the only way you can ID the difference between the O&N and the R&S
tops. The N-56 has R&S serial numbers as the N-56 was made from R&S tops when
the R&S were obsolete.
The N-56 appeared around 70,000 in the O&N serial numbers and around 31,000 in
the R&S serial numbers.
An unscrupulous seller recently took an R top and this allowed him to sell a
cobbled O for $750.00. I wonder how these money grubbers sleep, very well on
their mattress stuffed with money I guess.
Using micarta and a hammer frozen tops come out of the carriage easily and
without damage. You want to remove the weight first and tap one side then the
other seeing how far it moves each time by looking at the top of the top.
Steve
> Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 04:06:17 -0700
> From: [email protected]
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: [Phono-L] Reproducer top wanted
>
> Hello all
> Anybody got a decent top for a model O reproducer? Same top as used on models
> R and S. I am trying to improve on the O that I recently obtained, and the
> top has two chips in it.
> Thanks
> John
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