I came across this post, which I had saved from 2011, and have a
question about this method. I've seen a lot of suggestions to use a car
battery charger as the power source. How about a filtered and
regulated, high-current DC supply? I figure the purer the DC the better
and wonder about using a 12 volt, 25 amp Astron supply. Should I add a
load of some sort (such as a light bulb) in series to prevent the fuse
from blowing?
Chris
On 7/15/2011 2:43 AM, [email protected] wrote:
This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel for
years.
Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but without the
aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is
commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit better than
'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately
after the process.
For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of paint
put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped
into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or
lacquer to keep the rust off.
If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper plate
the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface.
Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating then tin
plating before nickel can be put on.
Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for ages.
Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into
great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a Triumph,
an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they
needed restoration. Boy, did they!
Happy Bastille Day to all,
Al
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