This is a very good alternative for most things and it works very well.
On 01/12/2014 12:33 PM, David Dazer wrote:
I love to use a product called Evaporust. I have done the electrolysis method
too and prefer the ease of Evaporust. You can google it and find all kinds of
praise for it. Buy it at an auto parts store.
Dave
________________________________
From: Bill Burns <[email protected]>
To: Antique Phonograph List <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2014 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal...
Just about any DC source will work; the process usually takes just a few amps
maximum. I usually use whichever car battery charger comes to hand.
I'd strongly recommend using washing soda (sodium carbonate) rather than sodium
hydroxide. You'll have body parts fairly close to the process periodically,
and while a splash of washing soda is harmless, sodium hydroxide can do serious
damage.
Newly de-rusted parts can also be protected with a coat of paste wax if they're
not to be painted or plated.
Bill
On 1/12/2014 12:20 PM, Chris Kocsis wrote:
I came across this post, which I had saved from 2011, and have a
question about this method. I've seen a lot of suggestions to use a car
battery charger as the power source. How about a filtered and
regulated, high-current DC supply? I figure the purer the DC the better
and wonder about using a 12 volt, 25 amp Astron supply. Should I add a
load of some sort (such as a light bulb) in series to prevent the fuse
from blowing?
Chris
On 7/15/2011 2:43 AM, [email protected] wrote:
This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel
for
years.
Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but
without the
aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is
commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit
better than
'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.
For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately
after the process.
For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of
paint
put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped
into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or
lacquer to keep the rust off.
If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper
plate
the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface.
Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating
then tin
plating before nickel can be put on.
Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for
ages.
Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into
great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a
Triumph,
an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they
needed restoration. Boy, did they!
Happy Bastille Day to all,
Al
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