if you do a google search, i think there is at least one website with some 
instructions.  i would however suggest that you not fill the case with silicone rubber 
as many people do, it will impair heat flow out of the batteries and make them get 
hotter when charging and discharging which will shorten the battery life (heat is a 
big enemy of rechargeable batteries) and possibly confuse the charger circuitry into 
not charging the battery pack as fully as it should (most of them, in the laptops i've 
seen, detect full charge by noticing when the batteries suddenly start to get warmer, 
though some do monitor the voltage instead).  

i'll be doing this myself, and have decided to glue a thin piece of plastic inside the 
case that can glue to both halves, allowing nearly normal heat flow (probably using 
"all purpose" plastic pipe cement or methyl-ethyl-ketone, or possibly just pvc cement 
which is less aggressive, i'll have to test and see which works better without totally 
dissolving the plastics).  also, don't try to solder directly to batteries, get the 
cells that have tabs on them for soldering, or use conductive epoxy to make the 
connections (expensive).  solder them reasonably quickly, any time you can't solder 
within 10 or 20 seconds there's a problem with how or what you are trying to solder 
and  you don't want to overheat the cells and make them leak.  also be sure to leave 
in all the thermal/short circuit protection, those cells are very dangerous if shorted 
or overcharged without the thermal protection, potentially exploding or at least 
leaking some very nasty corrosives, or spraying them on you and the computer possibly. 
 the pack i've opened for a duo had both a self resetting thermal fuse and a one time 
fuse in case that failed, keep whatever the battery pack had originally or you could 
be injured or worse.  if you can't solder to the metal strips on the thermal 
protectors (which will also ruin the one-time fuse if not careful) use the conductive 
epoxy to connect to them, they are essential for safety.  

it's probably smart to make a drawing of just how things were fit in and connected 
originally.  there's also a temperature sensor that controls how fast the battery 
charges and possibly lets the charger know when it's fully charged, make sure it's 
where it is supposed to be and isn't heat insulated so it will accurately reflect the 
temperature of the cells.

i'm too impatient for the exacto knife method, and i'm gluing it back together with 
new plastic bridging the cuts (on the inside) any way so i carefully pried off the 
sliding latch and used a hack saw to carefully cut that side open, i then carefully 
pried/tore the two halves apart.  this way the ugly cut will be hidden when done.  do 
be careful not to cut the cells open!  they do tend to contain nasty stuff.  do be 
careful, shorting the cells is also very bad, which is the other reason for thermal 
protection, it can quickly heat a cell and make it burst and make whatever is shorting 
them very hot.

there are several sellers on ebay that have the cells at a cheap price, some of them 
also have a website so you can avoid the ebay bs and possibly get a better price, 
particularly if you are buying a lot of them (for the duo pack, you need 10 aa nimh 
cells, a little over $1 ea. on ebay, $3-4 ea. most other places).

i believe you can use cells that have a higher capacity than the original as well, so 
you actually wind up with a better battery pack.  most of the cells seem to be higher 
capacity now than they were back when those battery packs were originally made.

Ruffin Bailey wrote:
> 
> I was surprised how much new batteries cost, Etc.
> 
> Anybody have any pointers on battery rebuilding?

-- 
"Where a calculator on the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 
tons, computers in  the future by the year 2000, may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and 
weigh only 1.5 tons"  Popular Mechanics, March 1949

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