*http://www.spiegel.de/international/world/0,1518,497853,00.html


French Oil Giant to Measure Arctic Melt

By Ansbert Kneip*

How much truth is there to the dire warnings of melting polar ice caps? A
team now plans to embark on a spectacular trip to find out just how thin the
ice in the Arctic really is. The group is an odd alliance consisting of a
French adventurer, a German scientist and a multinational oil corporation.

Jean-Louis Etienne has spent more than two decades getting to know the North
Pole. The explorer and adventurer has crossed the Arctic on foot, sailed in
the Arctic Ocean and spent one winter living alone in a hut on the pack ice.
He insists he's the last person to be imagining things when he observes
changes taking place in the region. "It's clear as day," he says, "the ice
has changed, there's no getting around it." Satellite images aren't
necessary to see that, he says. "Shall I give you an example?"

This spring, he says, temperatures in the Arctic were much warmer than
normal. In April 2007, when Etienne was at a location near the North Pole,
the thermometer there read -15 degrees Celsius (5 degrees Fahrenheit). "Just
15 below, can you believe it?" In other words, it was clearly unseasonably
warm.

The weather used to be different, says Etienne, and he experienced it in an
up close and personal way when he crossed the Arctic on foot for the first
time in 1986. It was Etienne's first major expedition, the one that made him
famous. He spent 63 days walking across the ice, alone, to reach the North
Pole. It was so cold that the pilot who dropped Etienne off on the edge of
the polar ice cap in far northern Canada was afraid to shut off his engine,
fearing that the propeller would freeze if he did.

The icy landscape was spectacular in those days, says Etienne. He describes
the way the distorted ice looks when ice floes collide -- they splinter,
crack and are pushed up to form ridges. The bizarre formations, known as
compressed ice ridges, were much higher in the past -- so high, in fact,
that it was impossible to cross them with a sled. Etienne swears that he
remembers these formations correctly. He also insists that 20 years ago, the
North Pole was truly a different place: there was more ice; it was colder;
and the obstacles were taller.

Jean-Louis Etienne is now 60. He has lost most of his hair and liver spots
dot his bald head. He could have slowed down long ago, giving talks about
polar bears and autographing coffee-table books. But standing across from
him in his Paris office, with a view of Montmartre, one quickly senses that
a slower pace is not his style.

Every Frenchman knows Etienne, their short, wiry Arctic hero, more famous in
France than even mountain-climbing legend Reinhold Messner is in Germany.
When Etienne embarks on an expedition, it's front-page news in the French
papers.

Earlier this year, Etienne met with executives at French oil company Total,
and told them what the Arctic was once like and how the ice is shrinking
today. He also asked them for the €7 million ($9.6 million) he needed for
his next spectacular adventure.

Total, the world's sixth-largest oil company, is worth €143 billion, employs
95,000 people worldwide and produces 2.36 million barrels of oil and natural
gas a day. Total made the internal decision long ago to become as
environmentally friendly as possible, although many see these kinds of
voluntary commitments as less than convincing, especially coming from an oil
company.

When the oil tanker "Erika" broke apart off the coast of Brittany in 1999,
it wreaked environmental havoc, sending thousands of tons of Total oil into
the Atlantic, polluting beaches and killing wildlife. The case was recently
brought before a French court, prompting television networks to re-broadcast
the ugly images from the freighter disaster. Yves-Marie Dalibard, Total's
director of public relations, immediately recognized the value of Etienne's
proposal. A polar expedition could create a new image for Total, where
pictures of oil-covered seals and struggling sea birds would be replaced by
photographs of breathtakingly pristine landscapes of ice.

Dalibard receives two or three meticulously prepared requests for financial
backing per day. An energy savings project here, an art exhibition there --
he turns down almost every one of them. But when the celebrated Etienne
showed up in his office with his stories of vanishing ice and slides to
illustrate his point, Dalibard was immediately convinced that the project
made sense. It would benefit Etienne, help scientists and perhaps even be of
value to the globe. And it would certainly be good for Total.

With the help of Total, Etienne is now planning his return to the Arctic. He
wants to make one last trip, because he believes that the world is changing
at the pole, and because he wants to understand exactly what's happening
there.

There is no shortage of observations that agree with Etienne's own that the
pole isn't what it used to be. According to researchers from Greenland,
spring arrives earlier each year (more...) and the warm period lasts longer.
Canadian companies that operate polar expeditions say that crossing the
North Pole (more...) from Siberia to Canada is now almost impossible because
the ice has become too brittle.

Although it is clear that some kind of process is underway, scientists still
don't understand exactly what it is causing it.

Some hope that the polar changes are merely coincidental. Critics say that
Etienne could well be confusing personal impressions with the global
situation. Here is an old man telling stories about his past, they say, a
man who is likely to play up his adventures and exaggerate the hardships he
faced. Who knows, they conjecture, if he had ventured out onto the ice 10
days earlier in April 2007 or had been dropped off at a point 100 kilometers
away, perhaps everything would have looked different -- possibly the way it
looked in the past. Besides, thin, brittle sections of ice existed 20 years
ago, which could suggest that what is now taking place is a completely
natural, and normal, phenomenon.

These are valid considerations, especially in light of observations that
appear to demonstrate precisely the opposite of what Etienne has seen. For
example, it is not getting warmer everywhere. This year boats carrying about
500 seal hunters got stuck in the pack ice. Even though seamen have known
the dangers of the Arctic for centuries, they were taken by surprise by the
severity of this winter. Supplies had to be brought in by air for weeks
until the ice had melted enough to release the hunters and their boats.

And contrary to popular belief, the polar ice cap is not melting everywhere.
In fact, the ice cover appears to be the thickest in places where it is
relatively warm, namely off the coasts of Alaska and Canada. Surprisingly
enough, the sea off the coast of Siberia, the Arctic's ice chest, contains
relatively little ice. The problem is a scarcity of data on the weather at
the pole. Scientists are observing changes and documenting what is clearly
some form of climate change, and yet they are unable to predict it.

Satellite photos show that the surface of the ice is shrinking. But whether
the North Pole will be ice-free in 40 years, 60 years or never is mere
speculation. To this day, scientists are still unable to determine exactly
how thick -- or thin -- the ice in the Arctic actually is.

That is why Etienne is crossing the North Pole once again. He will fly
several thousand kilometers across the polar ice cap next spring in an
airship and collect data. This time, he says, the purpose of the adventure
is not to set any records. In fact, Etienne won't be the first to make such
a journey in an airship. That pioneer was Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen,
who made the trip in 1926.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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