EYE ON ETHICS - Restaurant critic on review
Restaurant critic on review
May 13, 2008 6:30 pm Melinda Quintos De Jesus
A court battle over a restaurant review shows nothing if not the
coming of age of the relative latecomer in the growing pages of
lifestyle: the food writer or restaurant critic.
Lawyers and journalists in the UK and the US followed the case which
began when a restaurant owner lodged a libel complaint in Northern
Ireland against negative review of Goodfellas pizza restaurant in West
Belfast. Written by restaurant critic, Caroline Workman, it was
published in the Irish News in August 2000. According to a report on
the case, Workman "had been unimpressed by pretty much everything she
encountered. She deemed a chicken dish `inedible' and a glass of Coca
Cola she found to be flat, warm and watery." She gave the restaurant
one star out of five.
The jury decided in favor of CiarnanConvery, the owner of Goodfellas,
awarding him 25,000 pounds ($50,000) in libel damages. The
unprecedented decision rocked press rooms on both sides of the
Atlantic, as everyone in the business of reviewing sensed the chilling
effect the ruling would have beyond the circle of food critics. The
Irish News challenged the decision, with legal luminaries on the
offensive. In March this year, the appeals court reversed the
decision, asserting reviews to be legitimate expression of fair
comment and opinion.
Indeed, how else could these critical judgments be appreciated, except
as the view or opinion of the people writing them. To submit these to
the evaluation of the court would be sheer absurdity, as these are not
involved with the evaluation of facts. But this space is not about
law. And the decision sparks thoughts about the obligations of the
critics to their readers.
Their opinions and views play ,quite an important role in the public
forum, as critics become effective arbiters of taste, setting
standards for a range of services, products and performances, which
fill up a significant part of social and community life, fashion and
style, music recordings, theater, books, and yes, food. Indeed, those
being reviewed await the glowing notice from this media circle as sure
sign of success.
Food writers are probably later comers to the game, but with the
growing trend of eating out, they have probably gained a larger
following than their other counterparts, as the ordinary person can be
presumed to be interested in food, whether or not one actually goes to
eat out. And those who eat out appreciate the expert and knowing tip
about the better places in which to spend their money.
So, while the landmark decision in North Ireland asserted strong
protection of the food writer's opinion, it would be well for
restaurant writers of the world to recall certain do's and don'ts for
the job.
Nora Ephron notes how the classic tradition for the restaurant critic
required a level of anonymity. He or she is thus "rarely photographed,
makes reservations under a pseudonym, cannot accept free meals, and
never reveals his identity to a proprietor." Food writers share tips
to avoid being "outed," even celebrity status is often a sign of success.
It makes sense to work for anonymity, as a restaurant should not be
judged on service given to a preferred client or customer, which the
known restaurant critic will surely receive. Unlike books, concerts
and theater performances, the service of the restaurant can be
adjusted to excellence as appropriate to the preferred customer or
client.The review however is made on the presumption that any customer
will receive the same service and will eat the same quality of food.
Fairness also demands that the critic visit the restaurant several
times before writing the review. And judgment can be made only after
he or she has tried as many of the dishes offered by the
establishment. A review on a one-time visit or one-dish would be
considered unfair, as all practicing cooks/chefs know how delicately
the factors in the kitchen can affect the cooking.
The great cities of Asia locate among the most vibrant restaurant
scenes in the world. The restaurant critic provides a helpful guide to
the myriad offerings from holes-in-the wall to elegant places for fine
dining. Asian newspapers have spawned food writers of every kind, from
those with formal training in culinary arts to those whose knowledge
of and familiarity with food are simply home-grown in food-rich
backgrounds. The best are those who offer anthropological research
about food as an aspect of culture and who leave the restaurant
writing to others.
One can see that restaurant reviews feature the writer's face quite
prominently and no one is expected to be shy about being known when
one is dining out. The custom of the country also includes PR
invitations for journalists who will then make sure that a favorable
feature will make it to press.
In the Asian setting then, restaurant critics and food writers need to
take care that the special treatment they are given does not get in
the way of the application of honest and critical judgment.
With global travel and Internet, food writers provide the first
reference for where to eat in a city. The food writer who wishes to
serve as a guide for readers should make clear the basis for the
pleasure in a restaurant and the signature dishes for which the
restaurant is known. It also helps to note how much one should expect
to spend and what cards the restaurant will take.
I want the critic to say why a dish has been found praiseworthy and to
point out what was disappointing. To do this requires research about
the food being offered, and informed knowledge about food preparation
and cooking in general. I also think that they should indicate what
judgments reflect matters of personal preference and taste. As to
preferring risotto or paella more wet than dry.
Good restaurant critics, like ordinary journalists, should write for
the general public, not cater to an inner circle of already knowing
connoisseurs. They could provide guidance and information about
dishes, noting innovations on a classic dish, thus enriching the
readers' own response to the dining experience.
Let's face it. Many read restaurant reviews having no intention to
travel to a city or go across town to eat. For them, it is all for
one's vicarious experience. So the writing style has a lot to do with
reader loyalty.
A reminder then for that journalistic virtue of clarity. Critics will
sometimes let flow words - "heavenly,"" memorable, ""mouthwatering"
-that can't really mean much when describing a sauce or a stew. ****
Ms. De Jesus is the executive director of the Center for Media Freedom
and Responsibility.
http://www.eyeonethics.org/2008/05/13/restaurant-critic-on-review/#more-84
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