On Aug 18, 2004, at 3:13 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
- and dress in black.
or use your fancy Kodak camera in tethered mode and fire it from the computer... which of course is situated where it isn't in the reflection. Besides keeping you out of the reflection, that gives the advantage of being able to almost instantly view the image at one to one for critical focus evaluation and color analysis.
I do quite a bit of this type of work. I agree with using cross polarized lights. I work in a relatively large room and mount the art on a magnetic board on the wall. I have marks on the floor that help me position lights in a consistent way and keep the camera stand perfectly centered on a line perpendicular to the board. If the artwork is centered on the board, and the center of the viewfinder is aimed at the center of the board, then everything is square. I shoot with relatively long lenses (200mm Micro Nikkor most often for all but the largest paintings). This allows me to get the camera farther away from the work and well behind the lights illuminating the work. That means the camera is in the dark. No need for black cards, cloth etc to keep reflections out of the glass. The lights of course are flagged so that they are illuminating only the work and as little of the rest of the room as possible.
Bob Smith
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