http://www.kuwaittimes.net/read_news.php?newsid=NDAzMDA5NjQw

Headline News
Makkah besieged by a jungle of concrete


Published Date: November 21, 2010 

MAKKAH: Modernizing the heritage-steeped Muslim holy city of Makkah so it can 
handle an everrising number of pilgrims has resulted in history being lost as 
it is besieged by a jungle of concrete. Makkah has historically lived on 
serving pilgrims who visit for the Umra or lesser pilgrimage all year round, as 
well as for the Haj, the world's largest annual pilgrimage that this year 
attracted some 2.8 million people. The Saudi city lies in a valley, making its 
sacred Haram Al-Sherif or Grand Mosque visible
in its entirety only from the surrounding hills.

Seen from afar, the 601-metre Makkah Royal Clock Tower, topped with a gigantic 
four-faced clock, now rises from behind the hills and helps visitors at other 
holy sites locate the Grand Mosque that hosts the Kaaba. It is towards the 
cubic Kaaba that all Muslims face to pray. When complete, the clock tower will 
be the world's second tallest building ahead of Taiwan's 509-metre Taipei 101, 
but well behind the Burj Khalifa, the 828-metre skyscraper inaugurated in Dubai 
in January.

The skyscraper's huge clock, several times larger than London's Big Ben, is 
meant to set the benchmark for a pan-Islamic timing known as Makkah Time, an 
alternative to Greenwich Mean Time. Visitors to the Grand Mosque can be 
overwhelmed by the sheer size of the Manhattan-style skyline that now crowds 
over the compound. Beneath the clock, several complexes around the haram house 
a handful of five-star hotels, with malls featuring most high-street brands. 
Pilgrims leaving the mosque are bombarded by adverti
sements from the facades of the tall buildings encircling the haram's plaza.

These towers should not be around the haram," said Pakistani pilgrim Aqil 
Malik. "It is difficult to get to the haram. It should be an open space." The 
area around the Kaaba has been expanded by consecutive development plans aimed 
at increasing the capacity of the mosque. Pictures of the haram from some 50 
years ago show the Kaaba hosted by a modest mosque and surrounded by old 
neighborhoods.

Many of these districts were razed as expansion projects boosted the mosque's 
capacity to a minimum of 700,000 people spread across several floors, as well 
as widening its plaza to some 100 meters. Now a new expansion project ordered 
by King Abdullah is under way, with dozens of cranes looking down on the haram 
and excavation work digging deep to its north. The developments that have 
mushroomed along the edge of the expanded plaza have created limited access 
points that can become dangerous bottlenecks as Haj pilgrims flood the mosque 
for collective prayers and to circle the Kaaba.

Private security guards in the malls struggled during this year's Haj as crowds 
overflowed from the mosque, and pilgrims occupied the corridors of shopping 
centers to perform their prayers instead. Those who could afford to pay 
five-star hotel rates were able to take part in the collective prayers from the 
comfort of their panoramic terraces before dining on the same terraces with a 
full view of the haram.

Makkah's heritage is being harmed," said Saqr Hamid, 30, a fabric vendor in an 
old Makkah souk. "Makkah has changed. It was nicer when I was young," said the 
Yemeni who was born in the Western Saudi city, and whose shop in Al-Hijra 
Street, a few hundred meters from the haram plaza, is now destined for 
demolition. Hamid did not appear sad about the fate of the shabby building that 
houses his shop, but he believes that the new space that is created should not 
be filled with yet more towers and malls. "It would be better to have the space 
around the haram empty, and open to all people," he said.

That is unlikely to happen. Only a street away, an entire hill is being 
excavated to make space for another grandiose project, whose billboard depicts 
a fancy avenue, a twin tower and another mall. At other Muslim sacred sites, 
the authorities have significantly altered the infrastructure in an attempt to 
avoid the overcrowding that has caused deadly stampedes in the past. But in 
making the Haj safer, they have also erased some of its history. Images of the 
site of the symbolic stoning of the devil, taken half a century ago, show a 
short pillar that marked one of three stoning points standing in the middle of 
a circle.

It no longer exists in that form. The site in a barren valley surrounded by 
rugged mountains is now a five-level complex. Three wide walls penetrating the 
structure from bottom to top were built to replace the three original modest 
pillars. The new structure, which resembles a parking lot, even features a 
couple of helipads. In the distance, behind the rocky hills, the new clock 
tower is a beacon to signal the presence of the Kaaba. The contrast between the 
ancient landscape and the modern structures makes the latter seem starkly out 
of place. - AFP



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