http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2010/dec/19/saddam-legacy-quran-iraqi-government

Qur'an etched in Saddam Hussein's blood poses dilemma for Iraq leaders
As country debates whether to destroy everything connected to former dictator, 
Shia-led regime remains sensitive about relics

Martin Chulov in Baghdad 
guardian.co.uk, Sunday 19 December 2010 20.30 GMT 


 

Iraqi Imams view the 605-page qur'an written using 24 litres of former dictator 
Saddam Hussein's own blood donated over a number of years. Photograph: Scott 
Peterson/Getty Images 
It was etched in the blood of a dictator in a ghoulish bid for piety. Over the 
course of two painstaking years in the late 1990s, Saddam Hussein had sat 
regularly with a nurse and an Islamic calligrapher; the former drawing 27 
litres of his blood and the latter using it as a macabre ink to transcribe a 
Qur'an. But since the fall of Baghdad, almost eight years ago, it has stayed 
largely out of sight - locked away behind three vaulted doors. It is the one 
part of the ousted tyrant's legacy that Iraq has simply not known what to do 
with.

The vault in the vast mosque in Baghdad has remained locked for the past three 
years, keeping the 114 chapters of the Muslim holy book out of sight - and mind 
- while those who run Iraq have painstakingly processed the other cultural 
remnants of 30 years of Saddam and the Ba'ath party.

"What is in here is priceless, worth absolutely millions of dollars," said 
Sheikh Ahmed al-Samarrai, head of Iraq's Sunni Endowment fund, standing near 
the towering minarets of the west Baghdad mosque that Saddam named "the Mother 
of All Battles". Behind him is the infamous Blood Qur'an, written in Saddam's 
own blood.

Even to get to this point - the last step before entering the forbidden vault - 
has been a tortuous process.

On one flank had been the government, doing all it could to prevent access. The 
Shia-led regime is highly sensitive to the re-emergence of any symbols that 
might lionise the remnants of the Ba'athist rank and file, which still 
orchestrates bombings and assassinations every few days.

And then there are the Sunnis themselves, who are fearful of government 
retribution if they open the doors and of divine disapproval if they treat this 
particularly gruesome volume of the Qur'an with the reverence of a holy book.

"It was wrong to do what he did, to write it in blood," says Sheikh Samarrai. 
"It is haraam [forbidden]."

Despite this, Sammarie says he acted as the document's protector during the 
mayhem that followed the US-led invasion in 2003, hiding pages in his house and 
moving others among the homes of his relatives.

"I knew this would be much sought after and we made the decision to protect it. 
But to see this now is not easy. There are three keys and none of them are held 
in the one place. I have one, the police chief in the area has another and 
there is a third in another part of Baghdad. There has to be a decision of a 
committee to let you in."

Other relics have been much easier for the government to deal with, such as the 
Saddam statue that was toppled by US marines in April 2003, and copper busts of 
Ba'athist leaders that were erected all over the country. Their removal was 
straightforward, like lancing boils, say the men who run the country now.

As Iraq slowly assembles its fourth government since the fall of Baghdad in 
2003, attention is now turning to the more difficult issues - what to do with 
the landmarks and relics that are unique to the Saddam regime but which have 
also become synonymous with Iraq. Some, like the crossed swords that bookend 
Saddam's former military parade ground in central Baghdad, are as identifiable 
to the capital as the Hagia Sophia Mosque is to Istanbul, or the Old City to 
Damascus.

Several prominent politicians, such as Ahmed Chalabi, one of the key opposition 
figures to Saddam, are adamant that anything connected to the executed dictator 
must go.

"The best talent in Iraq was ordered to produce monuments which are designed to 
suppress the people," says Chalabi, who headed the National Deba'athification 
Commission in the early years after Saddam's removal. "This is very destructive 
for the psyche of the Iraqi population. This is a clear reminder of the 
consequences of totalitarianism and idealising a person that embodies evil. 
They have brought nothing to Iraq. They are not worth celebrating. They have 
nothing aesthetic to offer. I am for removing them."

Other men who also played a key role, first in Saddam's removal, then his trial 
and execution, are more sanguine.

"He was there and he ruled and he impacted on the world," said Mowaffak 
al-Rubaie, the former national security adviser who escorted Saddam to the 
gallows. "But he was a part of our history. He was a bad part of our history, 
but he made a huge difference, whether we like it or not. We need not bury the 
legacy of that period. We need to remember it, all what is bad and what is good 
and learn lessons. And the most important lesson is that dictatorship should 
not return to Iraq."

In 2005, the government formed a committee to oversee the removal of symbols 
linked to Saddam.

Ali al-Moussawi, a spokesman for the prime minister, Nour al-Maliki, 
underscored the dilemna. "Not everything built during this regime we should 
remove," he said from his office, which overlooks the crossed swords. "There 
were some sculptures however that were solely about dictatorship and control 
over Iraq. Some spoke to dictators and battles and they should be removed. They 
have ethnic and sectarian meanings.

"The statues of Saddam have no place on the streets. It is not his privilege to 
keep them there. If they remain in the community they will provoke the people."

But Moussawi was more open to compromise over the Blood Qur'an: "We should keep 
this as a document for the brutality of Saddam, because he should not have done 
this.

"It says a lot about him. It should never be put in a museum though, because no 
Iraqi wants to see it. Maybe in the future it could be sent to a private 
museum, like memorabilia from the Hitler and Stalin regimes."

In time, the legacy of Saddam Hussein and his 30 years of brutality is likely 
to become part of a more detached debate in Iraq's national consciousness, much 
like the discussions that took place in Germany in the late 1940s after the 
ousting of the Nazis.

For now, though, the soul searching is being left to those who made the 
disputed works, and those entrusted as their temporary caretakers.

Abbas Shakir Joody al-Baghdadi was the calligrapher commissioned to work on the 
Qur'an. He sat with Saddam for two years after receiving a phone call from the 
tyrant himself.

Saddam, at that point, had decided to re-embrace with his religion after his 
elder son, Uday, had survived an assassination attempt.

The result of Baghdadi's work was an exquisitely crafted book that would take 
its place in any art exhibition - if it wasn't for the fact that it was written 
in blood.

"I don't like to talk about this now," says Baghdadi, speaking by telephone 
from the US state of Virginia, where he now lives. "It was painful part of my 
life that I want to forget about."

Back at the mosque, Sheikh Samarrai is nervous. He fears the wrath that will 
descend on him - from the government definitely, and possibly from a much 
higher power - if he swings open the final door.

"Even if I let you in, you would need to stand 10 feet away from the pages and 
they are all behind glass cases," he said. Then he makes his decision. "It is 
just not worth it for anyone. They will stir up too much trouble."

Some things in Iraq will take many more years to confront.


Saddam's legacy

The Crossed Swords

Built in the mid-80s as a symbol of victory in the war with Iran, even though 
the war still had two years to run and ended in a stalemate. They bookend what 
is now the Green Zone.


Saddam's Palaces

There are at least 300 scattered all over the country. Some have been taken 
over by government ministries, others remain derelict. Yet more are looming 
eyesores, especially in Saddam's hometown of Tikrit, where up to five could 
eventually be destroyed.


Al-Hurriya Archway

On the eastern side of one of Baghdad's main bridges - an archway built by a 
famous architect, Jawad Salem, to commemorate the ousting of Iraq's royal 
family in 1959. It became synonymous with Saddam and the Ba'athists.


Statue of Saddam

Dozens once peppered the country, but the large green version in al-Firdous 
Square came to signify the end of Saddam when torn down by US marines in April 
2003. The bust, right, is kept in the office of former national security 
adviser Mowafak al-Rubaie who led Saddam to the gallows.






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