I agree with you, Glenn. OEM replacement motors are easier to obtain and install then the older style after market motors that the conversion/mobility industry used years ago. When companies like Ford, GM and Chrysler, started installing powered sliding doors and rear hatches, it made it much easier on the mobility companies. One less headache to design and employ. The more OEM repairs and adjustment at the auto dealer, the less time having to travel to the mobility dealers. The mobility manufacturers only had to interface the ramp system into the OEM circut. As you peek into the rear part of the sliding door jam you will/should see two plastic levers for the switches. As the inside/back of the door closes about 98% of the way, it touches/activates one of the levers that pull in the back of the door. It only has one opportunity to grab it during the cycle. If it misses, you have to back up the cycle and do it again. Or move the vehicle to a more level surface to prevent resistance on the closing door. As you (Glenn) mentioned, "Clear, clean and lube" the running track of the door. Make sure that water hasn't melted and refrozen in the door track to prevent proper closing and locking. Know your vehicle and how it operates, including how to jump the battery system. All the new microprocessors added by the mobility shops can't handle the volts when jumping batteries. Best Wishes W In a message dated 3/7/2007 9:16:42 A.M. Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I probably know more about the IMS van doors than anyone on the quad site. I have probably paid more out for IMS door problems than anyone else. Mine is a 1998, and I have had 4 motors replaced in that time. Your door not closing is due to possibly two things. The first and most expensive is the motor does not have the torque to pull the door shut hard enough to latch. <BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
