Wired together doesn't offer the same protection as those wired  
separately.  For example if something is left on or fails to shut offer  (for 
any 
reason) then the user could lose all their energy.  The original  concept was 
that if the engine battery failed, the user could switch to the rear  battery 
to operate the lift and engine.
This concept still applies for those with battery operated arm lifts  
installed in the trunks of cars and trucks.  They don't draw from the  engine's 
energy, but rather from a utility battery in the back.
 
Same applies to some automotive audio equipment requiring more energy from  
a second energy source. Connecting two batteries doesn't offer more 
energy..  they offer longer energy.
 
Best Wishes
 
 
In a message dated 7/24/2014 12:16:29 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[email protected] writes:

 
mine are wired together with no switch, there are several ways to  wire a 
dual battery setup, my vans kind of a rig with the dual batts but it  works. 
that's whats so bad about the old lift vans........each one is its own  
animal. the newer assembly line ramp vans are basically all the same, easier  
to 
maintain and fix I would think




 
 
On Thursday, July 24, 2014 11:21 AM,  "[email protected]" 
<[email protected]>  wrote:




 
 
Ron.  Much depends on the dash switch on which battery gets charged  and 
which one is idled.  The manual units require that you manually  switch 
between the two batteries.  The second battery will not charge  unless and 
cables 
are manually placed on the spare battery or the dash switch  is changed to 
the spare battery.
 
Voltmeters are good to have, but they don't indicate the battery  amperage. 
  I use a digital-coil load tester for 20 seconds on any  battery to test 
its integrity.   I've seen what appeared to be fully  charged battery, drop 
like a brick when load tested.
 
Best Wishes
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/24/2014 11:12:14 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[email protected] writes:
 
 
I installed a voltmeter that lets me know the exact voltage the  back 
battery has at any time. I know if there is a problem because the  voltmeter 
will 
be off from the normal. how old is the rear battery? try  trickle charging 
it overnight then see what happens, you could have a bad  battery. there are 
many setups for dual batterys in vehicles. I will get  more info for you 
later on.


This  is off topic a bit but I purchased a schumaker trickle charger that 
mounts  under the hood of my van and has a plug that comes out the grille. I 
can  charge the whole system overnight and it cuts off when both batterys 
are  full. Got it off ebay for 24.95. I bought a yellow top optima gel for the 
 rear , its a special battery that can be drained all the time without  
hurting it. regular lead acid batterys aren't meant to be drained, they are  
meant to stay at full charge from current from the alternator




 
 
On Thursday, July 24, 2014 9:04 AM,  "[email protected]" 
<[email protected]> wrote:




 
 
I know of several different types of vehicles using more than one  battery. 
 I never realized that the charging was automatic.  The  ones I saw 
required manual transfer with a switch mounted near the  driver.  I would think 
that any automotive station could address that  issue, as it would require... 
tracing wires.
Best Wishes
 
 
In a message dated 7/24/2014 8:01:39 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[email protected] writes:
 
Thanks guys. I have taken my van to Louisville at least six  times and I 
can honestly say they have never actually fixed a single  thing. Their answer 
is always a new lift /can't be fixed. Here is another  question for you 
guys. My backup battery system is not receiving charge. I  know there is a 
separator solenoid that regulates this. Any thoughts?  Thank you guys for 
letting 
me pick your brain.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:  <[email protected]_ (mailto:[email protected]) >
Date: Thursday, July 24, 2014
Subject: Van  lift
To: [email protected]_ (mailto:[email protected]) , 
[email protected]_ (mailto:[email protected]) 



Newark Electronics is a major supplier of electric parts and  components to 
the electric repair industry.  They may be based in New  Jersey.  Relays 
are truly penny items.  What is most important  are the various values and 
standards.
Best Wishes
 
 
In a message dated 7/23/2014 9:20:54 P.M. Central Daylight Time, 
[email protected]_ ()   writes:

Good point. I think I'll find someone adept at soldering boards and  take 
it from there. It just irks me that they quit supporting the lift  with so 
many of them still out there.
Who or what is  Newark Electronics? I can live without sarcasm.
Sent from  my iPad

Begin forwarded message:



From: [email protected]_ () 
Date: July  23, 2014 at 8:59:09 PM EDT
To: [email protected]_ () , [email protected]_ () 
Subject:  Re: [QUAD-L] Van lift





A relay switch?  Only a relay switch.  There is a good  chance that an 
electric shop can obtain a new relay and solder it to  the board for you.  
Where 
do you think Braun got their relays  from?  Newark Electronics?
Best Wishes
 
 
In a message dated 7/23/2014 3:59:20 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[email protected]_ ()  writes:

Took  my van to the shop in Louisville today. They diagnosed my problem as  
a bad relay switch on the circuit board. The switch is embedded so  the 
obvious solution is a new circuit board. Guess what? The part  was discontinued 
earlier this year by Braun. Their solution -- a new  lift for $7000. I just 
bought this one from them two years ago for  $3500. Any suggestions? Makes 
me want to  scream.
































Reply via email to