Whilst not being able to answer the question outright, the heated front screen 
Ford harness is in 30 amp wire and the switch includes a timer for ~7 min 
operation so obviously Mr Ford decided that the current draw was too much for 
continuous use.  My screen melts a 2-3 mm covering of ice outside and ~ 1 mm 
covering inside within 30 secs (which is really useful) but leaves the screen 
covered in water and the central area untouched hence the earlier comments..  I 
do not have either an amp-eater (difficult with an alternator other than very 
old moving iron type) or any voltage indication fitted so cannot comment 
further.

Hamish
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Administrator 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 11:15 AM
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Rear Screen de-misting




  Andy,

  I find my soft top is quite water tight as well.  I did wonder if an  
  MX 5 glass rear screen (or similar) could be made to zip into a  
  replacement hood for the 2+2?

  I understand you need air blowers for de-misting on a car with a full  
  screen for SVA/MOT.  Does the heated element front screen overcome  
  that requirement?  I wonder what the Amp draw in those are?

  I find that on the frosty days you still need to warm the screen to  
  stop it misting up, even with the top down.  Though I do drive hood  
  down on any good day through the year.  My favourite times are hot  
  summer evenings after the sun has gone down and the cold winter days  
  in the sun.  Can't beat it.

  Derek


  On 31 Dec 2008, at 08:35, Andy Haworth wrote:

  >
  > Back in the days of when I drove my car, I'd use a silicon blade on  
  > the rear
  > screen inside and out. The sort of thing you'd use to remove excess  
  > water
  > after giving the car a wash. The soft top on mine seems to be better  
  > at
  > keeping out water than the hard top (which had a heated rear screen)
  >
  > There was a raft of heated front screens that came out of a couple  
  > of forums
  > group buys, I've seen one go on ebay and I think Jim was looking at  
  > one as
  > well
  >
  > If you're brave I suppose you could always go top down! There's an  
  > MX-5
  > locally that unless it's raining, it's driven with the roof off.
  >
  >
  >
  > Andy
  >
  > -----Original Message-----
  > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected] 
  > ]
  > On Behalf Of Bob Craig
  > Sent: 31 December 2008 08:32
  > To: Quantum Owners Group
  > Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Rear Screen de-misting
  >
  >
  > Hi Derek,
  > Not tried it but don't see why not, just be careful that you are not
  > going to drain the battery if you have a front and rear heaters,
  > lights, etc all on and are only doing 11 miles. Some of these demist
  > heaters can draw 14amps (page 54 of CBS catalogue) , so make sure your
  > charging circuit is in tip top condition although I assume you will
  > only use them for a couple of minutes rather than driving the full 11
  > miles with them on.
  >
  > If your car is close to your house or garage you could run an
  > extension to it and use a 240v heater for a couple of minutes before
  > you leave. That would have the same effect but not drain your battery.
  > A bit simplistic but less hassle.
  >
  > Bob Craig (Q2-267)
  >
  > On 30 Dec, 22:41, Administrator <[email protected]> wrote:
  >> I've just been driving the 2+2 in the cold today.  I work 11 miles
  >> away from home.  That means I am spending half of the time on the
  >> journey to work with the car warming up.  Difficult when it is
  >> freezing.  I used a mod I had done a few years ago but is very nice  
  >> at
  >> this time of year.  The soft top window has a 12V fan heater directed
  >> onto it and mounted to the rear bulkhead so the top still folds.  It
  >> works and adds a little early heat to the car straight away.  So de-
  >> misting/de-frosting on a plastic window can be done.  I have been
  >> thinking of adding wired electric de-misting for the front screen as
  >> It would work straightaway without warm up as well.  I have seen some
  >> units that are SVA' able.   Anyone else tried this?
  >>
  >> Derek
  >
  >
  > >


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