Thats correct as long as the 5mm bar is flat on the surface of the end
of the head.
If it's 180 degrees out it's out it's below the surface so unless you
only have a small bit of bar you won't be able to do that.
I'm sure the second notch is correct, i've not used it for a long time,
when i did i used the wrong one but the engine still ran it was just
down on power.
So i made one of the stops that screws into the front of the block (you
undo the M10 bolt next to the gearbox) and locks the crank at TDC and
used that ever since.
So it does sound correct.
Jim
On 17/09/2010 14:26, Critter wrote:
Hi Jim,
100% percent is a lot !
I am using a 5mm bar to lock the camshafts and then aligning the crank
pulley second slot with the ridge on the crank case. Is that not all
I need to do ??
Now you have me wondering ?
Please tell me I'm wrong
Thanks
Trevor
On 17 Sep, 14:12, Jim Hearne<[email protected]> wrote:
Are you 100% certain you are getting the timing right ?
If you have fuel, a spark and compression then the only thing left is
that the timing is wrong.
Are you using proper timing tools to set the crank and cam positions ?
It's easy to get the cams 180 degrees out otherwise
I can't think of a fault in the head that would affect all cylinders.
A zetec will try and start on only 2 cylinders and will run happily on 3.
Jim
On 17/09/2010 13:39, Critter wrote:
Hi Mark,
yes, I was going to take out the cams and try another compression test
just to try and dismiss the theory about the valves letting by.
I have retimed or rechecked the cam timing a number of times.
thanks
Trevor
On 17 Sep, 13:11, markymark<[email protected]> wrote:
hi trevor are you taking the cams out to do compression test ?????
you should do the test with the cams in as it will tell you every
thing is set up right ?
On 17 Sep, 10:35, Critter<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi All,
I started a thread back in December 2009 with regards to my H4 not
starting, to re cap.
1.8 Zetec engine, when I bought the car the head had been skimmed and
reassembled but would not start. After trying many and various
suggestions by the group I finally dis-assembled the engine and found
nothing conclusive.
Fast forward to July: I obtained another 1.8 zetec engine from EBay,
swopped it over and it started first turn of the key, MOT'd and taxed
I ran the car for only a week and the head gasket blew ( make note not
to buy an engine from Ebay ) I then removed the head and transferred
all of the ancillaries from the second head to the original head as
that head had been skimmed and looked in good order.
Refitted it and now I'm back to the beginning of the original thread
i.e. good spark, plenty of fuel, timing is right, but the bugger wont
start !!.
I have checked compression which is there but lowish, but is even
across all cylinders, is it possible that after the head skimming the
valves are not seating properly, I was told that the valves had not
been touched.
Whilst trawling the net "as you do" I hit upon an old statement about
someone elses problems with no resolution that said: "Did the guys who
skimmed the head recut the valve seat then bed in the valves ?. Bet
your bottom dollar the car will start with a bump start but not via
the key. Check the compressions on crank, then whilst trying to bump
start, you will get next to nothing on crank, but spot on on bump
mode. had similar concerns myself. Its worth chekin before the head
comes back off!!!!!!!!"
I haven't tried bump starting as I believe you can kill the cat with
flooding with unburnt fuel, but the previous owner stated when I
bought the car that it had run when bumped. I may try removing the
cams and checking the compression again?
Any other suggestions ?
just to recap the only part reused from the original engine is the
cylinder head.
Apologies for the waffle.
Many Thanks
Trevor- Hide quoted text -
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