Actually, i don't think you were missing anything from your kit, the
heatshields are just clamped between the floor and the 24mm or so
pressed steel nuts.
They just minimise heat transfer by the shape of the heatshields, only a
small area around the nuts actually touches the floor.
But, as you say the combination of plated steel nuts and aluminium
heatshield means that the aluminium soon gets eaten away nut
electrolytic reaction.
Jim
On 11/08/2013 14:00, Hamish Freeman wrote:
Hi,
Having had a lot of grief with heat shields over the 14 years my H4 has been
in the road, I finally got a solution that seems to work.
The main problem is that if you use the Ford pressed aluminium heat shields,
despite the fact that the eyelet holes are reinforced, they are designed to
be held in place using some form of compliant non-conducting media which I
did not get with my Kit-in-a-box. At first I simply put coach bolts through
the floor and used the retaining nuts to space the heat shield off the floor
to provide an air gap and thus an insulation layer which gave no problem of
heat getting to the floor. I fixed the shields in place using large "penny"
washers either side. This worked fine but the shield material is so thin
that it soon fatigued away around the retaining washers. The replacement
washers got larger and larger and the evidence of electrolytic corrosion
became more apparent each time that I finally made "penny" washers in 2 mm
thick aluminium large enough to cover all the holes, which were then pop
riveted together with the shield. This has now been in position for about 5
years with no apparent electrolytic deterioration so it is now a case of "if
it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
Hamish
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Jim Hearne
Sent: 11 August 2013 09:10
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 Under-body Heat Shielding.
I think the floor on the H4 is only single skin.
The original Ford fittings were studs welded to the floor with big pressed
steel nuts screwed to them.
The Ford studs had a self tapping thread profile on, not a parallel metric
thread.
The nearest equivalent would be to put self tapping screws through from
inside the car so the thread stick out under the car for fixing the Ford
nuts onto.
Jim
On 10/08/2013 15:12, The Blue Pig wrote:
My H4 is a little light in the area of heat shielding for the exhaust
and cat (retro-fitted by the previous owner when the 1.6 Zetec engine
was causally nailed in).
I have plenty of material to do the job - my local garage was more
than happy for me to scavenge discarded sections from their junk pile
for nothing. I am wondering what is the best way to attach it to the
underside of the body. My knowledge of the anatomy of the body tub is
a little hazy but I'm guessing there's a void between the upper and
lower body mouldings, so is it feasible to drill a hole from below and
use the kind of plastic cavity anchor fixing one would use on a
studded wall to hold a screw - the kind of fixing that splays out as
the screw is tightened and locks against the inside of the cavity? Or
is it better simply to stick the shielding in place with epoxy resin?
Thanks for any advice.
Steve / The Blue Pig.
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