Hi All

Please can you remember your reports  and articles in please by Monday.

I know you are busy preparing for Xmas but if this mag is to go out at the 
beginning of Jan 2015 i need these in as soon as possible.

I have got my hands full with 6 puppy additions, which are now 2 weeks old, so 
i am going to have a house full of extra little feet running round as well as 
working up to and over Xmas.

I would like to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and all the best for 2015.

Jan

From: Paul Fennings 
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 12:43 PM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] 003 engine update.

Jim

 

Sounds like you have been very busy with that engine.  I assume you have an 
amount of expenses associate with this work. Can you give me an idea of where 
you are roughly at with the cost please.

 

thanks

Paul

 

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jim 
Hearne
Sent: 12 December 2014 08:16
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] 003 engine update.

 

Genuine Ford sump £182.39+VAT and would be on backorder with an unknown 
delivery date.

:--(

I may have to try another pattern part from a different source.
I use a pattern sump on Janets KA (Crossflow) and it fitted fine.

Jim

On 11/12/2014 21:55, Jim Hearne wrote:

  Ha, i spoke too soon.
  Went to fit the new Ebay pattern sump last night.

  No where near fitting around the oil seal carrier on the flywheel end, it 
barely touches the gasket, let alone compressing it into the groove on the seal 
carrier.
  Horizontally the end of the sump is also about 2mm short of the the end of 
the seal carrier.

  To prove it was the sump 100% i went over to my parents and got the genuine 
Ford sump from my old 2+2 engine.
  This fitted perfectly as expected.

  So I've asked to return the ebay sump, shouldn't be a problem getting the 
money back from Ebay if the seller messes about.
  I will find out the price of a genuine Ford sump.

  I would rather not use the Ford sump i have as i have a potential project 
that i need it for, also, it has a oil temperature sensor bush welded into it.

  Jim

  On 08/12/2014 11:08, Jim Hearne wrote:

    Another update.

     

    After some fun with the oil pump the  bottom end is now back together.

    The pump i got from Burton turned out to be rubbish, very poorly made, 
rough when the rotor was turned and a couple of tight spots as well.

    I resisted the temptation to remove the cover to investigate as the screw 
heads were already a bit chewed up.

    I sent it back and got a refund.

    I bought another one from Ebay that was supposed to be FAI, when it turned 
up it looked very similar to the Burton one and wasn’t badge FAI.

    According to the seller he buys his pumps direct from Autopumps, as do FAI 
so supposedly.

    Hmm, not sure.

    But, at least this one turned smoother and without tight sports.

    I took it apart and checked it out, the gears themselves seem ok.

    Various dents and burrs on the main casting which stopped the cover fitting 
down tightly so i cleaned those up.

    In the end i fitted the cover from the old oil pump, this wasn’t damaged 
and had a much better finish (ground) than the one on the new pump.

     

    Anyway, all together now.

     

    I bought the later type sump that takes the one piece rubber gasket as they 
are much less prone to oil leaks.

     

    Question, what nuts and bolts are you rebuilding the car with ?

    Original, plated steel or stainless ?

    I thinking for the sump, rocker cover etc ?

    For the sump i can either use original bolts (some are a bit tarnished), 
stainless ones or if i buy some plated steel.

     

    You have a rocker cover sorted out now Andy ?

    I have now found one that i think would be ok if sand blasted, there is a 
place down the road that reconditions old bed frames, there sign mentions sand 
blasting so I’ll see if they will do the parts i need done.

     

    The original head off this engine had too much wear on the lifter bores to 
reuse (strange that it had been recently rebuilt).

    I’ve actually ended up reusing the head from my original 2+2 engine.

    A tip, don’t try removing engine enamel using paint stripper, it doesn’t 
crinkle it up like normal paint, it just goes soft and sticky.

    Spent 4 or 5 hours scraping it all off.  (on the 2+2 I’d painted all the 
non machined casting green).

    Had to recut the exhaust valves in the lathe as they were badly pitted but 
a carbide tip soon cleaned them up.

    All valves now ground in.

    This is a late head but at least that should remove any risk of an early 
head with unleaded petrol.

     

    One head scratching item is the water pump, i bought another early pump 
(with the 2 outlets) as i thought that’s what the car had from looking at the 
photos. 

    And i thought the extra outlet would make the plumbing easier.

    But, now, I’m not so sure, the smaller outlet appears to head straight for 
the alternator.

    It maybe that pump only works with downward mounted alternator, the car 
needs the higher mounted alternator to clear the front chassis member.

    I fit trial fit an alternator to see how it works out.

     

    Do we have any new coolant hoses ?

    I have several boxes of old ones but don’t know if i have what we need.

     

    Does anybody have the thick insulator that fits under the carb ?, this one 
is well squished.

     

    That’s about it for the moment.

     

    Jim

     

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