@ Jim
The use of 4 core cable may well be for redundancy but my guess is as you 
say they just used what they had ;-) - that fits with a lot of the other 
additional wiring where it appears they only ever had 2 wire colors in 
stock. 
All 4 cores seem to have god continuity so  at least I don't have to 
replace that as it looks like a pig to do.
Not sure if my window switches are Ford - they look like the generic 
rectangular electric window 5 pin switch with spade terminals - maybe they 
have already been replaced once.
I have not measured the load motors draw but my early version copy of build 
manual show 30A fuse on supply so relays seem a better way than direct - as 
you say need 2 per side

Looking at regulators I can now see mine  have the 90 degree bend at bottom 
(what a bodge solution that was LOL) so most likely a failure waiting to 
happen if not already  in progress!
I recall seeing a drawing detailing window mods (I think you were the 
authorJim) but cannot find it now.

@Martin
The KA mk1 units look like the best option to me - easily and cheaply 
available and newer. The cable sections are shorter than the the Fiesta MK3 
so the motor mount position would have to move but that is easy enough. 
Same motor reverse polarity operation via switch (or relay in my case).

With regard motor change I think it should be possible (but probably not 
cost effective)  - the motor just drives a worm gear but that of course 
needs to be same on both units. I have taken regulators apart before to 
replace cables - most of them just wind the cables around a grooved nylon 
drum. I think in theory you could shorten the cable instead of fitting 
spacer on sleeve (need to solder on new nipple in correct place). 

I have now confirmed that I have the 90 degree bend units so these 
definitely need to be replaced.   

John


On Wednesday, 25 May 2022 at 15:28:12 UTC+1 
[email protected] wrote:

> Hello John,
>
> I adapted a mk1 Ford Ka unit to do the job – I suspect it’s almost 
> identical to other Fords. The wiring is 2 core to each motor, and the 
> polarity is changed by the switch for either up or down motion. 
>
> I’m pretty sure it’s not possible (or certainly very difficult ) to just 
> change the motor unit because the lift wire is coiled within a geared 
> housing attached to the motor – If you are brave enough to dismantle an 
> existing unit from your car it may answer whether a motor swap is possible. 
> I changed to electric because my manual winders had the ‘bend the track’ 
> modification, which is ultimately doomed for failure because the lift wire 
> cuts into the track – If the tracks on your car are modified in this way 
> (bent 90 degrees) that could explain the slow movement. If it is helpful, 
> the 
>
> conversion covering the parts needed and how to make the changes without 
> bending the track was in issue 176 (March 2021) of Complete Kit Car 
> magazine 
>
> Back Issues [2] - performancepublishing.co.uk 
> <https://www.performancepublishing.co.uk/back-issues/page/2/>
>
> Regards, Martin Scott 
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *[email protected]
> *Sent: *25 May 2022 14:50
> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
> *Subject: *[Quantum Owners] Electric Windows
>
>  
>
> I have recently been doing quite a bit of rewiring on my saloon (factory 
> built). I noticed the wiring cable for electric windows (looks original) is 
> 4 core (Red white black brown) going from cabin into door cavity  but at 
> each end of this cable 2 pairs are joined so effectively 2 core cable 
> connecting motor to centre console switch. Wondering why 4 core cable was 
> used in build? - possible wiring of extra door switch? . The wire gauge 
> looks same on 4 core and switch connection cables so extra load capacity 
> seems unlikely. Currently the switches are wired directly (no relays). New 
> switches and relay operation are going to be fitted. 
>
>  
>
> Window movement is really slow. I don't think this is due to dirty glass 
> friction etc. so maybe motors are tired. The current setup is using Bosch 
> motors which I guess is probably Ford Fiesta Mk3 original type (see pic). 
> If the mechanical side of regulator/cable is ok I was wondering if just 
> motor can be replaced on these? (a lot of Bosch units look very similar 
> although slightly different part numbers)
>
>  
>
> If I replace complete regulator with motor which donors have owners found 
> best or easiest to fit? I think originally modded Fiesta MK3 units were 
> fitted but others have mentioned MK4 MK5? can be adapted as can Ford KA 
> units.
>
>  
>
> John
>
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