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[image: Life on the Caldera: The Minang People of Lake Maninjau]
Life on the Caldera: The Minang People of Lake Maninjau
By NWMeyer <http://ireport.cnn.com/people/NWMeyer> | Posted August 1,
2012 | Bukittinggi
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CNN PRODUCER NOTE While traveling in Sumatra as a freelance
photographer and writer, NWMeyer <http://ireport.cnn.com/people/NWMeyer>
says he was tipped off to Lake Maninjau by locals at Lake Toba, a volcanic
lake in northern Sumatra. After a 24-hour bus ride, he says he arrived at
the breathtaking beauty of the Maninjau caldera. "These photos represent
the lives and challenging environment of the Minang people who have made
Lake Maninjau their home. I was humbled by their genuine friendliness and
hospitality," he says. "Their lives are not easy and filled with both steep
challenges and constant uncertainties, but their openness to outsiders and
their curiosity of the wider world is inspiring." His third photo was
selected as CNN's Travel Photo of the Day
<http://www.cnn.com/2011/09/21/travel/travel-photo-of-the-day/index.html>
for November 14, 2012.
- Anika3 <http://ireport.cnn.com/people/Anika3>, CNN iReport producer
In the highlands of western Sumatra, a place where rutted roads disappear
in clouds and dark forest, lies Lake Maninjau reflecting the sky from
within the jagged ruins of an old volcano. Fifty-two thousand years ago a
massive eruption hurled ash and debris as far as the Pacific Ocean and
created the 20km long caldera lake; today its soil and water sustain the
Minang people who have for centuries made their home on the volcano’s
watery roof.
Though devout Muslims, the Minang people eschew many patriarchal traditions
and are the world’s largest matrilineal society with their lands, houses,
and properties passed down mother to daughter. As for boys, traditionally
they leave home as young as age 7 to live in a commuity prayer house, a
surau, where they are taught Minang cultural and religious beliefs. As
teenagers, Minang males frequently work and study away from their
hometowns, returning as adults with skills and learning to benefit their
communities. While Islam has been an integral part of Minang culture since
the 1500s, more ancient animist beliefs persist to this day and have been
incorporated into religious observations.
The Minang people of Lake Maninjau work the caldera’s terraced rice paddies
as they have always done, but it is a life which promises hard work for
meager rewards. This traditional economy was challenged in 1992 when
karamba floating net cages were introduced to Lake Maninjau and now, three
decades later, these shore-ringing fish farms supply 30 tons of fish every
day to markets in the surrounding provinces of Jambi, Riau, and South
Sumatra.
While aquaculture has brought prosperity to the people of Lake Maninjau,
the overproduction of fish for distant markets threatens the lake’s fragile
ecology and the future economy of the communities who earn their living
from the caldera’s waters. Massive amounts of minerals found in fish
pellets can produce a toxic environment for aquatic life and now
significant fish die-offs occur as frequently as twice a year. In 2010 the
Jakarta Globe reported 100 tons of fish dead during that March with losses
estimated at US$8.6 million, a staggering amount in a country with an IMF
rated GDP of US$3,500.
For centuries the Minang people of Lake Maninjau have shared the green
slopes and rocky shores, their rice grown in the lake-fed swamps and fish
drawn from its waters, but as in the past their future is tied to the lake.
With the dangling promise of prosperity comes increased aquaculture and the
lake’s ecosystem will be further degraded so that if this trend continues
Lake Maninjau will lose its ability to support local communities. Fewer
economic opportunities at home mean fewer men will return from their time
in the cities of lowland Sumatra and leave unanswered the question if the
caldera’s people will, like the roads, disappear into the mountain clouds.
On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 7:41:39 AM UTC-7, Sjamsir Sjarif wrote:
>
> "Namun, ironis dan kontras dengan *tubo *saat sekarang ini. entah tahun
> berapa karamba dimulai,entah siapa pencetusnya, tapi yang jelas, setelah
> karamba membooming di salingka danau maninjau, tubo menjadi momok yang
> menakutkan, ditakuti, dibenci, dan dihindari. Memang pada dasarnya, karamba
> meningkatkan income masyarakat scara drastis. tapi dibalik ini semua,
> *tubo* yang disambut hangat saat kedatangannya, sekarang sangat tidak di
> inginkan. *Tubo* datang, petani keramba *tacingangak.**"*
>
> Maninjau ; Tubo Balerang
> <http://armeidi.blogspot.com/2013/04/v-behaviorurldefaultvmlo.html>
>
>
> Siapa yang tak tahu dengan keberadaan danau maninjau. Danau dengan
> pemandangan nan eksotif namun rupawan ini, sudah terkenal eksistensinya di
> dunia pariwisata nasional, maupun internasional.
>
> Namun, siapa yang menyangka kalau danau vulkanik ini, menyimpan sebuah
> misteri, yakni *tubo balerang. Tubo balerang* merupakan fenomena alam
> yang dianggap biasa bagi orang asli maninjau, namun aneh bagi non asli
> maninjau.
>
> Dahulu, sekitaran tahun 80an, saat saya masih kecil-kecilnya, *tubo
> balerang* adalah hal yang sangat ditunggu-tunggu, biasanya kemunculan
> *tubo* ini, ditandai dengan angin kencang atau biasa disebut *angin darek*.
> Warna danau yang semula berwarna biru, berubah menjadi hijau.
>
> Umumnya *tubo* naik dikala Ramadhan di Danau Maninjau setiap tahunnya.
> Akibat naiknya* tubo*, maka ikan di danau terindah di Sumatera Barat itu
> banyak yang mati. Sebagian orang desa sana mempercayai bahwa itu terjadi
> karena* “Bujang Sembilan*” mengamuk sehingga *tubo* naik ke atas
> permukaan danau sehingga mengakibatkan banyak yang mati ikan mati, baik
> ikan tanam (yang disebar) maupun ikan asli danau *ikan bada (Rasbora
> argyrotaina), ikan rinuak, pensi* dan lainnya.
>
>
> <http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UaUOI13KFtA/UX964ZMsWgI/AAAAAAAAAGI/YProGBTkOBM/s1600/11TUBO.jpg>
>
>
> <http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zERMOQoYVN0/UX966qxwKtI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/36LXZjjwfws/s1600/77maninjau+--+ikan+mati.jpg>
>
> Akibat naiknya *tubo*, pemandangan mengharukan terlihat jelas, nelayan
> tambak menjadi kocar-kacir dengan berusaha membuang ikan yang mati dan
> menyisihkan yang bisa diselamatkan (5 Nopember 2010).
>
>
> <http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-avA9yz2Ja6Y/UX96n3_ncEI/AAAAAAAAAGA/chnHeukcKDc/s1600/38ikan+mati+di+maninjau.jpg>
>
> Saya kalau melihat gejala alam yang demikian, secepatnya mempersiapkan
> peralatan menangkap ikan. Dengan teman sebaya, mencari kelambu untuk
> digunakan menagkap *rinuak*, tak perlu repot repot, dengan tangan kosong
> saja, ikan-ikan akan mudah ditangkap, karena apabila *tubo* datang, ikan
> akan pusing *(nena)* dan menepi di tepian danau.
>
> Bukan saya saja, mayoritas masyarakat disalingka danau,akan bersuka ria
> untuk menyambut kedatangan *tubo* ini,sebab akan mendapatkan ikan dan
> *rinuak* dengan sangat mudah. Masyarakat berbondong-bondong didanau
> seperti ada pesta rakyat mendadak.
>
> Namun, ironis dan kontras dengan *tubo *saat sekarang ini. entah tahun
> berapa karamba dimulai,entah siapa pencetusnya, tapi yang jelas, setelah
> karamba membooming di salingka danau maninjau, tubo menjadi momok yang
> menakutkan, ditakuti, dibenci, dan dihindari. Memang pada dasarnya, karamba
> meningkatkan income masyarakat scara drastis. tapi dibalik ini semua,
> *tubo* yang disambut hangat saat kedatangannya, sekarang sangat tidak di
> inginkan. *Tubo* datang, petani keramba *tacingangak.*
>
>
> Diposkan oleh Armeidi Doank
> <https://plus.google.com/105510103841598001077> di 01.08
> <http://armeidi.blogspot.com/2013/04/v-behaviorurldefaultvmlo.html> Tidak
> ada komentar:
> <http://armeidi.blogspot.com/2013/04/v-behaviorurldefaultvmlo.html#comment-form>
>
>
> On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 7:24:09 AM UTC-7, Sjamsir Sjarif wrote:
>>
>>
>> http://antarabogor.com/berita/7567/lipi-karamba-danau-maninjau-melebihi-daya-dukung
>>
>> On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 7:16:34 AM UTC-7, Sjamsir Sjarif wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/grosnain/7930813112/in/album-72157631178784442/
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 2:36:37 AM UTC-7, Bagindo Darwin Chalidi
>>> Talanai wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Takicuah di nan Tarang. Alah jaleh mah. Ado study dari Unand mengenai
>>>> kasus danau wak iko. Sangat2 sedih dan terjadi pemiskinan secara massif
>>>> petani ikan danau.
>>>> Insya Allah kalau ado study tu ambo share dlm milisko baliak.
>>>> On Apr 30, 2015 4:31 PM, "Fashridjal M. Noor" <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> "Tapi kabanyo nan mamokok-i karamba tu Urang Lua bukan Urang Kampuang.
>>>>> Masalah Fulus dari lua ko barangkali nan mamasang Kungkuang Mato Kudo di
>>>>> kapalo panguaso sahinggo terlena ..."
>>>>>
>>>>> Sia nan bisa meungkek apokah kaba itu batua atau indak?
>>>>>
>>>>> Apokah ado daftar pemilik karamba lokal dan investor karamba dari luar
>>>>> di danau Maninjau nan legal?
>>>>>
>>>>> Kalau penguasa punya raso empati dan peduli ka nasib rakyat dan
>>>>> lingkungan pesisir danau Maninjau itu tantulah akan cepat/segera menindak
>>>>> tegas karamba2 nan ilegal
>>>>> On Apr 30, 2015 4:12 PM, "Sjamsir Sjarif" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Tapi kabanyo nan mamokok-i karamba tu Urang Lua bukan Urang
>>>>>> Kampuang. Masalah Fulus dari lua ko barangkali nan mamasang Kungkuang
>>>>>> Mato
>>>>>> Kudo di kapalo panguaso sahinggo terlena ...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Saribu karamba malabiahi jatah
>>>>>> dek ulah fulus nan indak bagarah...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- Makngah
>>>>>>
>>>>>
--
.
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