I use the Obenauf's that Rivendell sells.  Stuff is fantastic. 
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/goo13-tiny.htm

John

On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 8:29:24 AM UTC-8, Pudge wrote:
>
>  Do you Proofide the bar tape?
>
>  
>
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> [mailto:
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>] *On Behalf Of *Surlyprof
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 20, 2015 11:28 AM
> *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Noodle to Albastache Swap - Trek 520 Touring Bike
>
>  
>  
> I'm a big fan of Brooks tape which, of course, matches the honey saddle 
> perfectly.  They are expensive but I bought them after my third set of 
> corks crapped out in less than a year.  I bought one pack of Brooks 9 years 
> ago and have moved them across three different handlebars.  I only had to 
> clean off a little of the adhesive with Goof-off.  They feel great and age 
> in a similar fashion as the seat (although not quite as quickly).
>  
>  
>  
> The new-to-me Hillborne I recently purchased came with Albatross bars. 
>  I've thought about swapping them for Albastache bars because I miss having 
> the mustache-style bars I had on a Surly.  Initially, I have considered at 
> least flipping them upside-down (as David said he tried) to achieve the 
> more ergonomic down drop on the front curve.  I fear I would lose the 
> upright quality at the bar ends that is nice to have when commuting through 
> the city.  If I did switch to Albastache, I would probably go back to a 
> shorter stem.  'Stache bars really increase the reach.  Has anyone flipped 
> Albatross bars over or is that just a ridiculous idea?
>  
>  
>  
> As for the quicker steering on the 'stache bars, I believe that has more 
> to do with the hand position being in front of the pivot point of the 
> headset.  More of your weight is further out so the steering action is more 
> of releasing of your weight from one side to the other.  It uses your 
> weight more in the steering.  With the upright bars such as the Albatross 
> and Bosco, your hands are more in line with that pivot point and less of 
> your weight is on the bars.  Steering becomes more of a push/pull 
> relationship.  At least that's what I've been able to surmise from a basic 
> ergonomic comparison between the drops, bosco, albatross and older mustache 
> bars I've had.  This is also why I think that flipping the Albatross bars 
> will not achieve a similar feel of my old mustache bars.
>  
>  
>  
> Hi, I'm John and I'm a bar-swap addict.
>
> On Monday, January 19, 2015 at 8:08:47 AM UTC-8, SeanMac wrote:
>  
> Hi folks,
>
> I am contemplating a winter project that would convert an early 1990 Trek 
> 520 touring bike into an around town "grocery getter"  and/or bike trail, 
> easy cruising bike.  My plan is to swap out the Noodle bars on my Trek for 
> Albastache bars.
>
> From what I have read, this looks to be a pretty easy conversion.  The bar 
> end shifters that I have on the Noodles should work on the Albastache 
> bars.  I should also be able to swap over the brake levers from the Noodle 
> to the Alnbastache (I've got the original levers - non-aero, 
> non-brifters).   Is there something that I am missing?  Will be cable 
> lengths be similar or will I likely need new cables?
>
> For as long as I can remember, every bike that I have ever ridden has used 
> drop bars, so I contemplate this shift with both excitement and a bit of 
> apprehension.  After all, why mess with something that works?  On the other 
> hand, I think that this conversion will bring new life to a bike that does 
> not get used very often.
>
> One other thought, what color Newbaum tape do you suggest to best match an 
> Brooks B-17 honey saddle that has some years on it?
>
> Thanks for your thoughts.
>
> Sean
> EA, NY
>   
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