Rona et al,

There are two schools of thought when it comes to snow riding: thinish tires 
that cut through the snow on top to bite on the “bed rock snow” beneith or 
wider tires to float on top. Handling is different for each and shifting from 
one to the other harrowing, but both are very doable, conditions depending, 
with a lot of overlap. Only experience can tell what works for each of us daft 
enough to have fun in the slop! Grin.

In my experience the only time studs are needed is ice, not snow or snowpack. 
If ice is a regular issue for your rides, definately get studs. If not, they 
are annoying to ride with, even for occational ice.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 8:33:21 AM UTC-7, RonaTD wrote:
> On Tuesday, November 7, 2017 at 9:02:29 AM UTC-6, David B wrote:
> The Nokian A10s are good for regularly plowed roads. They measure around 
> 35mm, so they'll look tiny on a Clem but would work fine for commuting on 
> plowed roads. I used them for a couple winters in Chicago on a 650b road bike 
> conversion.
> They're not ideal for more snowy roads. For that I'd go with a 2.1" option. 
> 
> 
> That doesn't match my experience. I have A10 650B tires and Schwalbe Winter 
> Marathon 26x2.1". In the typical plowed-but-slushy-with-tire-tracks 
> conditions that we have here, the 2.1" tires on my Riv ATB float too easily, 
> causing abrupt loss of control in an exciting/terrifying way. The A10s on my 
> Cheviot and on my Protovelo(Bleriot) are far more stable. On the Cheviot the 
> long wheelbase really helps, too. The reality is that deep (say, more than 
> 4"), fresh snow is challenging for any bicycle.
> 
> 
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI

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