On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Glad to hear you've got a hub on the way.
>
> Now moot points:
> If you ever do need to run a fixed cog without a lockring, I recommend the
> Rotafix method of installation and removal. It's worked for me for many
> years, both offroad and on. I traded a wheel away, and the shop broke a
> chainwhip trying to remove the rotafixed cog. The rotafix removal worked
> fine.
>

This being the Rota Fix method (which I never heard of before)?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y16rJ0M4YLY

If so, question: how does this get the cog on tighter than simply screwing
it on finger tight, and then getting on the bike and honking up a steep
hill?


> In my experience, a BB lockring used as a jam nut does nothing to keep the
> cog on the hub. Just the other day I learned that in order for a jam nut to
> work, it needs to be wider than the nut being jammed (thin nut inside, fat
> nut outside).
>

Now that is useful information, in that I rather suspected that a bb
lockring didn't do anything for security, but I didn't realize that a fat
lockring, even if RHT, *will* work. Can someone explain the physics or
mechanics of why this is so?

Please use bright pictures and short words!


> Use high quality cogs (Dura Ace, EAI, Surly) and hubs, or you can strip
> thread even with a lockring.
>

Yup! I did that powering through an intersection while jumping a red light
with a stamped cog on a Normandy hub. Instant freewheel!

But I haven't seen one of those $10 stamped cogs for 10+ years; perhaps
they underwent mass extinction during the fixie craze?



>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>
> On M
>

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