On 12/20/18 12:46 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
"A case could be made for a Rinko-style separable fender for that
situation"
I've retained the cut-section for exactly that reason. That material
makes the ideal Rinko-bridge piece. I even have an extra Compass
Rinko-nut. All it would take is one more cut, if the situation
demands it.
It's a pity Honjo doesn't make "bridge" sections available for that
purpose. It makes sense for a builder to cut up fenders to create
bridges for many bikes but for an individual user, it sure does make
that little stub very expensive!
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA
On Thursday, December 20, 2018 at 9:33:38 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar
wrote:
On 12/20/18 12:17 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Steve asked for my reasoning.
1. The front extension length was too long because the
UNSUPPORTED front extension vibrated and flexed enough to make
objectionable noises. That's an objective fact that we both agree on
2. The front extension length was longer than necessary because
it is not and never will be required to protect the underside of
a traditional handlebar bag or basket. That is a judgement call
by me that I think you can provisionally support
3. The front extension length was longer than necessary because
it was much longer than SKS P45s, which I have used for thousands
of miles and have never felt my body was insufficiently protected
from spray off the tops of my tires. That is a judgement call by
me that you've shared you are pretty sure you disagree with.
Fair enough
4. The lower SPAN between the fork crown and the stay was too
long because my physical sideways manipulation of the fender at
the midpoint of that span showed me the fender was objectionably
flexy. This model of fender is also too skinny in cross section.
A wider fender cross section would be stiffer laterally and could
handle that span-length better. This is a judgement call by me.
5. The lower extension was both too short and too long, because
it wasn't long enough to protect my feet optimally, and wasn't
short enough to add a flap to protect my feet. This is a
judgement call by me.
Given those judgments, I needed to do one of three things
A. Add a stay to the front to address 1. Reposition the existing
stay to address 4. Cut the trailing edge to address 5. Leave the
front longer than necessary (2,3) because it looks cool
B. Rotate the whole fender backwards to address 1, 2, 3 and 5.
Redrill everything to reposition everything, addressing 4.
C. Cut the trailing edge and add a flap, and rotate the remaining
fender back. Reposition the existing stay, addressing 1-5.
I went with C because it maintains my ability to put the bike on
my Yakima fork mount roof rack. A full-length front fender makes
that impractical, as you know.
Thanks for the clear explanation of your thinking. Precisely what
I was hoping for! I always enjoy seeing the way you work out
these solutions.
As for those Yakima mounts, I do indeed know, although shoulder
injuries have made my use of any roof rack entirely out of the
question. A case could be made for a Rinko-style separable fender
for that situation, in that even a shortened fender with flap
doesn't work all that well - at least, it didn't for me, with SKS
fenders on my Rambouillet.
Bill
On Thursday, December 20, 2018 at 8:43:50 AM UTC-8, Steve
Palincsar wrote:
On 12/19/18 10:45 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
> Steve P asked why I did things my way instead of his way.
>
> I decided to cut the fender off because I decided the front
fender was too long for my use on this bike. If I decided to
leave the fender too long for my liking on this bike, I would
have run another stay.
Fair enough, but how did you determine that its length was
too long?
Curious to understand your reasoning.
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