Most likely, they either ran a pedal tap through it to repair the threads or 
installed a helicoil.  If they did the former, it’s hard to say what the 
resulting threads are like.  

If they did the latter, and installed it properly, you should be fine. The 
helicoil tap is oversized, so you get fresh threading, and the helicoil is 
installed with strong threadlocker (i.e. red loctite or the like).  Keep the 
pedal threads greased and you are good to go.  

If they did not install a helicoil and it fails again, you can always install a 
helicoil at that time.  It should't be necessary to replace the crank arm 
unless there is other damage to the arm or tapers.
 
Elton Lance
Vero Beach, FL





> On Aug 7, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Gill <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Last fall through my own dumbassness I stripped the drive side (silver) crank 
> on my Clem. LBS tapped/threaded insert put the pedal back on and off I went 
> with no problems since. I recently asked a bike mechanic if he thought this 
> was a good, permanent solution and he said, “Dude, if it was me I’d 
> definitely get a new crank” (said with a slightly raised eyebrow  so I’d know 
> he was serious). So in deciding what to do if anyone here has experience with 
> this sort of thing or a reasoned opinion I’d be grateful to hear it. 
> 
> Decision factors to consider:
> I check often and pedal looks/feels fine. 
> Keeping stuff out of landfills worthy goal
> Depedaling (is that a word?) was painful want to avoid going forward. 
> New cranks don’t come easy
> 
> Questions:
> How confident should I be with a repair? 
> Will changing out pedals compromise?
> Should I have machine shop redo lbs repair, assuming skilled machinist with 
> sophisticated machinery will produce best result?
> Should I just get a new crank?
> Thanks
> Gill
> Gloucester MA
> 
>  
> 
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