1. Cantilevers too work better with tires no more than about 60 +/- mm
wide; getting a 3" knobby between the canti bosses (unused; the Monocog
29er has disc brakes and is set up for both) is a hassle, even when they
are soft at 13-15 psi.

2. While I can get decent (my definition may not be yours) braking from
good cantilevers, at least I personally have found it much harder to get
"powerful" -- = strong retardation with moderate hand pressure -- braking
with cantis than with V brakes. I do like other things -- adjustability,
modulation, looks -- better about cantis than Vs.

I recall the miserable power from Mafac cantis, both single-bike
shorter-arm version and longer-arm tandem version, on my Herse, pulled by
Mafac levers. I daresay I could have shortened the straddle cables, but
sold the bike before I got around to doing so (sold, not because of the
brakes).

Laing: How do you get strong cantilever braking, particularly with drop bar
levers? I guess that one preliminary factor is to match the pull of your
lever to the needs of the cantilever; my Dura Ace 7410-era drop levers
probably don't have as much MA as my Paul Neo Retros and Touring cantis
need for best operation, but I love the shape of those levers.

I'd be interested in others' *apercus *about this.



On Tuesday, 28 February 2023 at 05:29:32 UTC-8 lconley wrote:
> Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not
to play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't
really
> see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider ugly
an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the fender
> clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get their
cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.

Laing

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