I have the same issue with my Hillborne. I assume they use the same
studs as the QB. The problem is more radial slop than length-wise slop
as was previously mentioned. I had terrible brake shudder, because
when the brakes hit the rim, the cantis would rotate enough on the
stud to remove the little bit of toe-in that they had when not
engaged. I ended up re-postioning the pads with a lot of toe-in and
that solved the problem. Other than that issue, which I'm not sure is
due to the under sized stud or oversized brake bushing, I love the
CR720s.

On Jun 9, 10:06 am, Horace <[email protected]> wrote:-
> On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 10:38 PM, Philip Williamson
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I just changed out the stock Quickbeam brakes for Tektro CR720s, a
> > presumable upgrade.
>
> > However, the brakes have fore-aft play on the canti bosses, and make a
> > 'tank'ing noise when plucked. The bike makes the exact same noise when
> > I jink to the left.
>
> > So the bosses seem a shade too long for the brakes, both front and
> > rear
>
> > Has anyone else noticed this with the CR720?
> > Should I add a thin washer under the nut? Under the brake?
> > Is this the reason I get brake chatter on the front, or is that the
> > pads still being brand new?
> > Would moving the spring-end to the tighter hole keep the brakes from
> > rattling as much?
>
> > Also, regarding braking power, they seem the same as the old brakes.
> > They're high profile, so I've got a high cable yoke. It can't get much
> > higher. I want a stronger front brake with a higher yoke, since I
> > can't lower the stock low-profile brake's yoke any further, due to the
> > M12's mounting rod.
>
> Have you considered V-brakes? I tried the CR720 on my Quickbeam for a
> couple of years too, but recently switched to Avid Single Digit
> V-brakes (requires different levers or a Travel Agent). They do have a
> lot of stopping power.
>
> Horace.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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