I was kidding about Kool Stops. As for leather pads, back 40 or 50
years ago domestic industry leather replacement pads were available
for the impecunious and were quite common. After a year or so in
alternating wet and then hot + dry, they'd condense to the consistency
of cheap ceramic with corresponding efficacy in braking.

I know all about the wear. The trick used by the roadside bicycle
wallahs was to take a big pair of pliers and kink a bend in the long
rod running under the downtube. That took up the slack, until, of
course, you put tension on the rod, at which point it expanded again
-- the solution reduced the rattling but little more.

The front brakes were generally more consistent over the long term
thanks to the shorter linkage -- consistently bad, compared to bad and
then useless.

BTW, as to speed, as a teenager in 1 mile high Nairobi, I could draft
the slower motor vehicles on the flat with such a roadster -- I
remember once drafting a Peugeot 403 pickup for a mile or so at about
30 mph along northbound Limuru road a couple miles  north of the
Muthaiga ( of colonial white bwana "altitude, alcohol and adultery"
fame) junction. Them were the days ....

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:34 PM, Steve Palincsar <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, 2010-12-14 at 14:55 -0700, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
>> I'm tempted to pay $5 just for a photo of the rod brake stuff, for
>> sentimental reasons (but I won't). The Indian ones never worked after
>> the first few miles; I wonder if the Raleighs etc worked better? Kool
>> Stop salmon pads? Old and long outdated technology, like Woods valves,
>> or simply bad quality?
>
> Well, to some extent it depends on your standards for "worked".  My
> Raleigh DL-1 had those brakes, and in dry conditions and on the level
> when new the brakes were certainly adequate to the performance level of
> the bike.  It's awfully hard to get a DL-1 to go much faster than 10 mph
> on the level, and the bike seems to have a "hull speed" that keeps the
> speed down no matter what you do.  Leisurely speed, leisurely brakes, a
> reasonably good match.
>
> In the wet, steel rims and black rubber brakes, fuggedaboutit.
> "Stopping" is just not going to happen, no matter how hard you mash on
> those levers.  Your life passes before your eyes as you feel like you're
> falling from a great height...
>
> There is not and never was a Kool Stop brake to fit.  No salmon rubber.
> Back in the early 20th century there used to be leather brake pads that
> allegedly worked better on wet steel rims than anything I ever saw --
> Fibrax was the brand, I believe -- but certainly by 1980, when I bought
> my DL-1, they had vanished into the mists of time.
>
> Over the course of time, I'm not sure what happened to my DL-1 - uneven
> rim wear?  out of round condition? but after four or five years when I'd
> put the brakes on they'd shudder as some sections grabbed and others did
> not.  The LBS tried but was unable to resolve the problem.
>
> Also over the course of several years the moving parts in the brake
> lever system wear and develop "lost motion" you can't dial out.  Slack
> develops, and the lever can only move so far before it bottoms out on
> the handlebar, so you lose maximum braking pressure.
>
> There are some very charming things about old English roadsters -- but
> their brakes really aren't one of them.
>
>
>
>
>
> --
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>



-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at [email protected]

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