Heroic. I love it. I need to learn about taps and dies, I think.

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Tuesday, January 22, 2013 5:44:49 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Came up with a great solution for mounting a Cygolite on the strut of my 
> Nitto M-18 front rack .  It will also work for a Mark's Rack.  
>
> Note this this won't work on an M-12 or VO front rack with brazed/welded 
> struts - it will only work on the racks that use separate rod struts and the 
> Nitto 20184 Rack Nut and Bolt to attach the rod to the rack.  
>
> Note that the M18 rack doesn't have M5 lugs, so there is no simple way to 
> attach a light to the rack.  
>
> While the Mark's rack does have M5 lugs, and you can attach a light mount 
> directly to those, they're at the rear of the rack, and attaching on the 
> strut lets you mount a light 6 inches forward.  
>
>
> You need the spare Nitto 20184 assembly.  
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/rh1-20184.htm 
> <http://webmail.satx.rr.com/do/redirect?url=http%253A%252F%252Fwww.rivbike.com%252Fproduct-p%252Frh1-20184.htm>
>  
> Slide the Nitto rack nut and bolt down the strut, face it out and you have an 
> M6 mounting base for any of your strap-type light brackets.  
> I'm sure others have been this far without the epiphany, because here you can 
> use the Nitto nut and attach a bracket for your Edelux, et.al. lights.  
> But I wanted a handlebar mount Cygolite on the strut.  So I bought a Paul 
> Gino light mount, re-drilled and tapped the M5 guide hole to the M6 thread, 
> and used the tapped Gino mount in place of the nut.  Also needs a lock 
> washer, and I went with an M6 bellville spring washer.  
>
>
> I used a fluteless (cold-forming) M6 tap on the Gino guide hole,because this 
> forced me to open the hole from 5mm to 7/32", which took away the anodizing 
> and gave me fresh metal. 
> It should also produce harder threads than a chip-cutting tap.  
> The tap was sold by McMaster as a hand-tap, and it worked great by hand (with 
> lube - I did it right the first time)
>
> Here's the Nitto strut joint I took apart.  (This joint has to come apart 
> anyway, to gain access to the strut)
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP1210001.jpg>
>
>  the rod bolt loose on the strut
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP1210003.jpg>
>
>  Nitto clamp washer in place
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP1210004.jpg>
>
>  M6 bellville spring washer in place - the crown side goes toward the Gino
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP1210005.jpg>
>
> (here is where you could attach the Herse or VO strap bracket for other 
> style light mounts)
>
> and my tapped Gino mount completes the assembly
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP1210006.jpg>
>
>  hanging the light for vertical clearance fit
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP1210008.jpg>
>
> After you have the position and alignment right, you should tighten the 
> Gino with a pair of channel lock pliers (and maybe a chamois)  to get some 
> compression of the bellville spring washer - this makes for a shock- and 
> vibration-proof joint.  
>
> and an elegant solution
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP1210010.jpg>
>
> I'm waiting on my replacement Nitto fitting to reassemble the top of the 
> strut to the rack, but it will arrive today in a rivbike order.  
>
> It doesn't show in my photos, but the light beam is a good inch and change 
> above the tire and I have plenty of vertical clearance to reach the light 
> button under a wide rando bag.  
> On my M18 rack, I have the long struts attached to my front dropout M5 
> lugs, but this should also work fine with shorter struts attached to fork 
> clamps or lugs.
>
>
>
>

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