I'm using one, and have some (very quick) impressions:
 
- Great company and customer service, as mentioned.  Nice to support a 
small, US company/family with such a compelling (andsort of tragic) story, 
too.  And you've gotta love a company who exists primarily to  foil the 
major component manufacturers in their pursuit of 
technology-for-the-sake-of-technology and planned obsolescence.  . 
 
- Parts are very well made.  Pulleys and bearings should last forever.
 
-  If you ever need to change the function to a different pull-ratio (for a 
different shifter/derailleur combo), you can buy just the pulley.  I did 
this.
 
- I might be using a thicker/stiffer-than typical derailleur cables, but I 
think it's somewhat difficult to thread/route the cable through the 
little hole, and then around the proper pulley path, and then to hold it 
all in place while you try to add tension to the cable.  Then, once you DO 
add tension, the cable becomes slightly kinked into it's final position, so 
it would be quite difficult to make minor position adjustments later. (For 
instance, if you decided to shorten your cable housing.)  So be sure to get 
it right the first time, before you really tug on it.  A second pair of 
hands would probably help a lot.
 
- I notice absolutely no impairment or added friction in 
the shift-function/cable-pull.  In fact, if you remember the theory behind 
the old roll-a-ma-jig thingy, you could probably make the argument that 
shifting and smoothness of cable pull  are improved.  However, I would 
expect the cable to wear out more quickly, since it's making a tight turn.  
I think they even say as much in their instructions.
 
-  The one thing that I absolutely do NOT like is the interface between 
the shiftmate and the derailleur itself.  (Seems kind of sloppy actually, 
but I'd be willing to bet there are applications where it works better than 
with my shimano and suntour derailleurs -  perhaps SRAM or Campy are 
different?)  The cable-to-shiftmate connection is fine and rigid and 
supports a normal housing ferule, but the shiftmate-to-derailleur 
connection is just expected to sit there and stay in position through 
the miracle of cable tension.  I think it would be much better if there was 
a male end that would fit into the derailleur's barrel adjuster.  This 
would still allow it to rotate freely, but it would keep it from wanting to 
flop sideways.  As it is, if you DO happen to bend it sideways, it's going 
to stretch the cable.
 
I can take and post a picture later, if interested.
 

On Tuesday, October 29, 2013 10:33:45 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

> I searched the past posts on the web interface of this group for topics 
> related to the Shiftmate.
>
> Although I found some posts about the shiftmate within threads, the usual 
> responses within the threads were something along the lines of "Oh I have 
> xyz setup on my bike with the shiftmate and it works great".  There wasn't 
> a thread specific to the Shiftmate.
>
> So I was thinking we could have a thread dedicated specifically to the 
> Shiftmate.
>
> After mulling over the responses from the 650b thread I started about 
> converting my custom Rivendell, I think the simplest way of doing it, with 
> the least amount of parts changes, is to get a Shiftmate.  I currently have 
> a full 9 speed Campy setup with Campy bar-ends that I like.  I can get a 
> Shimano 650b rear wheel and Shimano 9 speed 12-32 cassette for around 
> $130.  Then put the Shiftmate on there and should be good to go without 
> further changes.
>
> At least- if the hype about the Shiftmate is to be believed.
>
> What are your experiences with it?  Which model are you using with what 
> drivetrain?  How hard is it to set up?  Is it set-it-and-forget-it, or does 
> it require constant fiddling?  How about the shift quality?
>
> I have a long cage silver Chorus derailer on my Riv.  If I assume it can 
> handle the 32T cog and leave it in place, I need a model 1 according to the 
> Jtek site.  But if there are problems with the Chorus derailer and I switch 
> to a Shimano derailer rated for 32T, then I would need a model 4 according 
> to the Jtek site.  I certainly don't want to have to buy it twice.
>
> Anyway, any input is appreciated.
>
> -Jim
>

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