Actually, thats what i did, and i'm pretty sure thats what all the diagrams told me to do. Seems crazy, but thats the recomendation. One cap going from + to -, one cap going from + to case, one cap going from - to case. I found multiple articles suggesting this. Here is the link to one article: http://www.teamdelta.com/pdf/tde_an1.pdf
So far, i just did it to my 'test' motor. I figured i'd use an extra motor in case i messed up, or couldn't put it back together, but i figured that part out. I figure this, along with the new automotive relays with diodes in them, should do the trick, or else its back to the drawling board. Jeremy On Feb 5, 7:29 pm, "Doug Conn" <[email protected]> wrote: > I can't tell from the photo ... did you solder one lead of the capacitor to > a motor power line and the other end to the motor case ? If so, I don't > think that's wise. > > - Doug > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] > > On Behalf Of Joker > Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 7:20 PM > To: R/C Tank Combat > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motor Noise > > Ok, took a few more days then i figured, but i finally got some > pictures. I posted them in the files section. Uh, how do i put them > in the message? I'm sure i use to know how, but i forgot. Anyhow, > they are in the files section. Name stars "M" and has the specific > thing that i'm trying to point out. I put it all back together, and > works as good as when i started. > > On Jan 31, 1:14 am, Don Shankin <[email protected]> wrote: > > I was going to suggest that you buy some diodes as well, but it looks like > > you're all set. What type of caps did you buy? (electrolytic, ceramic, > > expensive mylar...?) > > > Also, I don't know what you paid for the caps from Amazon, but if you've > > never been to the site before I usually get all of my stuff from > > futurlec.com. They are by far the cheapest place I've ever seen for > general > > components all the way up to things like ADCs and microcontrollers. The > > only downside is that the shipping can be hit or miss sometimes, and on > one > > order (out of dozens that I've placed) I had to wait for a while. > Otherwise > > they've been awesome. Also, I think they're based in australia, so you > guys > > may have better luck with shipping down there > > > On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Joker <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > I broke one open. I'll take pictures of it tonight and post them. > > > Didn't see any capitors in the one's i bought off ebay. Bought a > > > whole bunch of 0.1uf cap's off amazon. figured i'd try to install > > > them to keep from frying relays. I also bought some relays with > > > diodes in them, in another attempt to keep me from frying relays. > > > I'll have to see if all my little bits work soon. I figure its this, > > > or start running my tank at 12v instead of 24v. > > > -- > > ---------- > > Donald Shankin > > Computer Engineering Undergrad > > Blue Marble Security Member > > IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter > > NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter > > CAEL Partner > > (507) 301-2499 > > [email protected] > > [email protected] > > ----------- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
