Yeah, that's what the diagram shows in Figure 2, all right. I'm used to the
configuration they show in Figure 1. Figure 2 makes sense to me only if the
motor case is grounded, but grounding the case seems like a bad idea.

        - Doug


It seems like that would only work if the motor case was grounded, and there
are good reasons why you don't want to

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Joker
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 8:26 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motor Noise


Actually, thats what i did, and i'm pretty sure thats what all the
diagrams told me to do.  Seems crazy, but thats the recomendation.
One cap going from + to -, one cap going from + to case, one cap going
from - to case.  I found multiple articles suggesting this.  Here is
the link to one article:  http://www.teamdelta.com/pdf/tde_an1.pdf

So far, i just did it to my 'test' motor.  I figured i'd use an extra
motor in case i messed up, or couldn't put it back together, but i
figured that part out. I figure this, along with the new automotive
relays with diodes in them, should do the trick, or else its back to
the drawling board.

Jeremy


On Feb 5, 7:29 pm, "Doug Conn" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I can't tell from the photo ... did you solder one lead of the capacitor
to
> a motor power line and the other end to the motor case ? If so, I don't
> think that's wise.
>
>         - Doug
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
>
> On Behalf Of Joker
> Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 7:20 PM
> To: R/C Tank Combat
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motor Noise
>
> Ok, took a few more days then i figured, but i finally got some
> pictures.  I posted them in the files section.  Uh, how do i put them
> in the message?  I'm sure i use to know how, but i forgot.  Anyhow,
> they are in the files section.  Name stars "M" and has the specific
> thing that i'm trying to point out.  I put it all back together, and
> works as good as when i started.
>
> On Jan 31, 1:14 am, Don Shankin <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I was going to suggest that you buy some diodes as well, but it looks
like
> > you're all set.  What type of caps did you buy? (electrolytic, ceramic,
> > expensive mylar...?)
>
> > Also, I don't know what you paid for the caps from Amazon, but if you've
> > never been to the site before I usually get all of my stuff from
> > futurlec.com.  They are by far the cheapest place I've ever seen for
> general
> > components all the way up to things like ADCs and microcontrollers.  The
> > only downside is that the shipping can be hit or miss sometimes, and on
> one
> > order (out of dozens that I've placed) I had to wait for a while.
>  Otherwise
> > they've been awesome.  Also, I think they're based in australia, so you
> guys
> > may have better luck with shipping down there
>
> > On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Joker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > I broke one open.  I'll take pictures of it tonight and post them.
> > > Didn't see any capitors in the one's i bought off ebay.  Bought a
> > > whole bunch of 0.1uf cap's off amazon.  figured i'd try to install
> > > them to keep from frying relays.  I also bought some relays with
> > > diodes in them, in another attempt to keep me from frying relays.
> > > I'll have to see if all my little bits work soon.  I figure its this,
> > > or start running my tank at 12v instead of 24v.
>
> > --
> > ----------
> > Donald Shankin
> > Computer Engineering Undergrad
> > Blue Marble Security Member
> > IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
> > NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
> > CAEL Partner
> > (507) 301-2499
> > [email protected]
> > [email protected]
> > ----------- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


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