It looks great, Ben. A lot of work going on there.
What make of 24v->12v converter are you using ?
I use twin #50 roller chain tracks, too, and I've had my share of track
throwing problems. The latest thing I tried was to tie my two rear idlers
together to stop them turning independently. I'm not sure how yours are set
up, but you may give that a try. It helped for me.
I'm planning my next track now. I think I will cast some track treads that
have guide teeth. Each pad will also have a small indentation for the
attachment chain tab to mount into. That should help keep the two chains
from skewing relative to each other. I think that is a big contributing
factor to throwing a track.
I'm still open to the idea of injection molded track pads, if anybody wants
to go in together to defray the tooling costs. I've been pricing the
Smooth-On products I need to make the castings and it looks like it will
cost about $1.80 per tread for the resin and molding rubber. This is more
than the per-piece estimates I've been able to get for injection molding.
Injection molding carries a $1000 - $1500 USD tooling charge, though.
- Doug
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Modena
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 4:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TANKS] Improved T067...and threw a track
Today I put T067 back together after fully disassembling the suspension and
drivetrain for some improvements after the initial test drive some weeks
ago.
Improvements are that swing-arms are now riding on bronze bushings, have
high-tensile bolts and changes to the mounting bolt arrangement, which means
the swing-arms are now swinging as they should be, and suspension travel is
nice and free now with no unnecessary tension/ friction on the travel - all
the resistance is provided by the coil- spring, as it should be. Just
driving over grass has shown immediate "coolness" factor with tiny bits of
suspension travel all over the place.
The two outer pillow-block bearings are gone and 2-bolt pressed-steel flange
bearings are in their place - this was for rigidity reasons and had the
secondary benefit of also saving some weight. The pillow blocks were
"sliding" on their mounts under the torque of the M01's.
The Anvilus speed controller has been upgraded to dual Victor 883's with an
IMX-1 mixer. The Anvilus unit worked well, I just needed more grunt (this
thing is at 70kg already).
I ditched the separate 12v battery and put in a 24v->12v step-down
converter, this will power the turret traverse and also feeds into another
voltage regulator to give 6v for the RX. So the whole setup is powered by
the one 24v 20-ah LifePo4 lithium battery.
After finishing bolting it back together today, some quick test runs showed
that I really don't like the Ps2 controller. The C6C itself is fine,
multimeter and tank-on-blocks testing shows me it is doing exactly what it
should be doing, but the wireless remote is dodge - it bounces around, move
forward and let it go and it sometimes goes into a neutral spin, and other
sorts of associated annoying and potentially dangerous behaviour. I've
decided to go with a more traditional RC unit for this vehicle, I will use
my C6C for the support vehicle I have planned.
Track tension is obviously not quite high enough, as two neutral on-
the-spot turns threw a track off the front drive-sprockets - I refitted the
track, neural turned again (by mistake, damn Ps2 remote) and it came off
again.
Ah well, all good development time and it's slowly getting better and
better!
Ben
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