thanks Frank, I did this in v0.1, and will do again once I've sorted out the turret internals if I need to get wires up there (will try to make it self-contained I think). Ben
________________________________ From: [email protected] on behalf of Frank Pittelli Sent: Mon 29/06/2009 5:29 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [TANKS] Re: Traverse - failed attempt #1 - (now fixed) Modena wrote: > I used 5/8 because I already had a flange bearing that size, and as > Steve suggested the turret plate just rests on the lazy susan, turning > it with friction, whereas the turret itself is turned by the 5/8 all- > thread, bolted TIGHT to the turret base, and a cross-bolt through the > bolt and sprocket One last twist and you'll have perfection: Replace the 5/8" all-thread and nuts, by a 5/8" tube/pipe and two 5/8" collars/flanges That allows you to pass wires through the center of rotation from the main body to the turret. See: http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T001/Page4.html for more details. In the Tiger, a metal bar is welded to the tube to form a "T", which allows the turret to be attached/removed using two nuts. When I want to work on the turret systems, I detach it from the main body to make things easier. Frank P. --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
