I have been playing with the idea of using PVC or styrene as well Derek. If you don't mind, what is the source for the PVC you quoted? Thanks Greg
On Aug 5, 3:27 pm, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote: > I'm planning the next tank using PVC sheets. I was going to use a > combination > of ~3/8" and ~"1/8 sheets. I originally tried foamed PVC. While it didn't > work > that badly, the foamed PVC scars up much easier than regular PVC. PVC is > easily glued and strong once glued. Joe's Hetzer is made from Lexan or > similar. > I think that stuff would be harder to work with than PVC and PVC should take > > paint better (for painting the vehicle color). Using PVC sheets, it would > be about > $200 for 2 sheets of each size in a 24"x 48" length shipped. > > Derek > T065 > > On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 10:17 AM, Sgt.A.Johnson < > > > > [email protected]> wrote: > > > MDF is quite flexible aswell ive found in wood tech at school. With > > enough elastic bands you can get a pen to shoot right through mdf and > > smash it apart so not too sure how well it will stands upto paintball. > > although this was only 6mm stuff so you will probably be using > > thicker. Has anyone use plastic sheets before to make panels. i reckon > > most look too brittle but perhaps a combo of 6mm mdf for the > > flexibility and 6mm plastick for strength and you should get a nice > > composite material > > > On Aug 5, 4:11 pm, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote: > > > I used a piece of 3/4" MDF for the bottom of my tank. You have to keep > > in > > > mind that MDF needs to be pre-drilled for any holes for screws or nails > > or > > > it will crack off. Screws also strip out pretty easily so you have to be > > > real careful about using them. Once it is wet, it pretty much > > disintegrates > > > and warps. It has to be sealed pretty well. Drilling has to be done > > slowly > > > to minimize chipping on the backside. I always try to put a scrape piece > > of > > > wood behind anything I drill through to minimize the chipping and > > > splintering when drilling. > > > > Derek > > > T065 > > > > On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 3:54 AM, Tango71 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > MDF is pretty tough stuff. Not as tough as plywood of the same size > > > > but still tough. If done right, it can work. You would need to coat > > > > the entire tank with epoxy both in and out to protect against any > > > > elements you may face. > > > > > Weight would be a major issue though. But for a small simple electric > > > > RC tank I don't see why it would be a problem. > > > > > On Aug 4, 5:15 pm, "Ben Holko" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > What are people's thoughts on using MDF for panel work, or even as > > the > > > > structural hull if a thicker grade was used. MDF is very smooth, so > > should > > > > provide a good finish when painted. Does MDF resist moisture well > > enough > > > > once painted? > > > > > > I know it's heaveir than ply, but the finish on it may offset that > > > > penalty, and it's still lighter than metal :) > > > > > > Ben- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
