www.interstateplastics.com I had found another site that I thought was less expensive, but I can't seem to find the link at the moment. Maybe I bookmarked it at work.
Derek T065 On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 2:14 PM, Cold comfort <[email protected]> wrote: > > I have been playing with the idea of using PVC or styrene as well > Derek. If you don't mind, what is the source for the PVC you quoted? > Thanks > Greg > > On Aug 5, 3:27 pm, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote: > > I'm planning the next tank using PVC sheets. I was going to use a > > combination > > of ~3/8" and ~"1/8 sheets. I originally tried foamed PVC. While it > didn't > > work > > that badly, the foamed PVC scars up much easier than regular PVC. PVC is > > easily glued and strong once glued. Joe's Hetzer is made from Lexan or > > similar. > > I think that stuff would be harder to work with than PVC and PVC should > take > > > > paint better (for painting the vehicle color). Using PVC sheets, it > would > > be about > > $200 for 2 sheets of each size in a 24"x 48" length shipped. > > > > Derek > > T065 > > > > On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 10:17 AM, Sgt.A.Johnson < > > > > > > > > [email protected]> wrote: > > > > > MDF is quite flexible aswell ive found in wood tech at school. With > > > enough elastic bands you can get a pen to shoot right through mdf and > > > smash it apart so not too sure how well it will stands upto paintball. > > > although this was only 6mm stuff so you will probably be using > > > thicker. Has anyone use plastic sheets before to make panels. i reckon > > > most look too brittle but perhaps a combo of 6mm mdf for the > > > flexibility and 6mm plastick for strength and you should get a nice > > > composite material > > > > > On Aug 5, 4:11 pm, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > I used a piece of 3/4" MDF for the bottom of my tank. You have to > keep > > > in > > > > mind that MDF needs to be pre-drilled for any holes for screws or > nails > > > or > > > > it will crack off. Screws also strip out pretty easily so you have > to be > > > > real careful about using them. Once it is wet, it pretty much > > > disintegrates > > > > and warps. It has to be sealed pretty well. Drilling has to be done > > > slowly > > > > to minimize chipping on the backside. I always try to put a scrape > piece > > > of > > > > wood behind anything I drill through to minimize the chipping and > > > > splintering when drilling. > > > > > > Derek > > > > T065 > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 3:54 AM, Tango71 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > MDF is pretty tough stuff. Not as tough as plywood of the same size > > > > > but still tough. If done right, it can work. You would need to coat > > > > > the entire tank with epoxy both in and out to protect against any > > > > > elements you may face. > > > > > > > Weight would be a major issue though. But for a small simple > electric > > > > > RC tank I don't see why it would be a problem. > > > > > > > On Aug 4, 5:15 pm, "Ben Holko" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > What are people's thoughts on using MDF for panel work, or even > as > > > the > > > > > structural hull if a thicker grade was used. MDF is very smooth, so > > > should > > > > > provide a good finish when painted. Does MDF resist moisture well > > > enough > > > > > once painted? > > > > > > > > I know it's heaveir than ply, but the finish on it may offset > that > > > > > penalty, and it's still lighter than metal :) > > > > > > > > Ben- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
