Thanks Paul, thats bexactly the info I was looking for. Can spring
steel be welded, to attach the torsion bars to the hull or swingarms
without changing the temper at the joint?  If not I may have to borrow
Navyshooters idea with the locking setscrews.  Im also experimenting
with a setup using two stacked hacksaw blades, with teeth ground off,
inside a 5/8 tube axle filled with grease. Seems to work well and the
grease seems to add a shock absorbing effect that Im hoping will help
with pitching during starts and stops...Luckily I only have 10 road
wheels to work with...

Thanks
Ed
p.s. Imagine one of those torsion bars shattering in a full scale
tiger? Right under the driver's seat!

On Oct 30, 8:54 am, NavyShooter <[email protected]> wrote:
> Here's a peek at a bottom view of my suspension, showing a single
> Torsion bar in place.
>
> http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T066/025-large.jpg
>
> I used 1/4" spring steel, ground a flat on one side, (each one is
> individually ground and fitted) and there's a 1/4" bolt tightened
> against that flat and locked in place with a nut.
>
> They will not move.
>
> I had the springs made up in an industrial shop on the waterfront,
> cost me $5 each.
>
> If they bend, then I'll straghten 'em or make a couple of new ones.
>
> With 4 rods, I can stand on the weighted frame and almost bottom it
> out.  That's my 215 pounds plus the 100+ pounds of the frame.  So,
> that means each wheel can support about 75 pounds.
>
> I have 14 wheels.
>
> That gets me over 1000 pounds.
>
> I hope that's good.
>
> We'll see how durable it is.
>
> Right now, my issue is alignment for the rear idler, and I'm working
> on that this weekend.
>
> Brad

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