thanks Doug. ok so what exactly would i need wood lathe for ? (as if wood
lathe is the thing you mount a piece of wood in (or something else of
course) and then start it, it rotates, and enables
you to work on material on all sides equaly ... ?
if i understod you correctly :
ˇˇ hole for screw ˇˇ hole for screw
|------ ---------------------------- ---------|
| | | | | |
---------------| |------------------
---------------| |------------------
| ^hole dor shaft | ^hole for extender
|------------------------------------------------|
this should work ? just screwing tughly should hold shafts in place ?
what kind of metal is best to work with =? (so i can drill it ...) how small
drill bits and taps is it possible to get ? 1mm ? 2 mm ?
On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 11:13 PM, Doug Conn <[email protected]> wrote:
> You could probably make a small solid shaft coupler/extender using a wood
> lathe (you said you are well equipped for wood).
>
>
>
> I would start with a piece of aluminum rod about 9mm diameter. In the
> states, rod like that can be purchased inexpensively in a home improvement
> store. Cut off a small piece , maybe 2 cm long. Will something that small
> fit in your lathe ? If so, mount it and end bore a hole the same diameter as
> your motor drive shaft. Then, drill a perpendicular hole near one end for a
> set screw. Just drill until your perpendicular hole meets your axial hole.
> You’ll need to drill the appropriate drill size and tap for the set screw.
> Again, drill bits and taps (sometimes in a coordinated set) can be purchased
> inexpensively at a hardware store. Tapping will be a little tricky because
> the hole doesn’t go all the way through your coupler. What you really need
> is a ‘blind tap’, but that’s a more specialized tool. If it were me, I’d
> make due with a standard tap and then use a screw to finish out the final
> threads where the tap can’t reach.
>
>
>
> I don’t know what goes on the other end of your coupler. Will it mount to
> the outside of a small aluminum rod ? If not you could always repeat the
> process above on the other end of your coupler to create something that
> joins two shafts.
>
>
>
> Hope that helps.
>
>
>
> - Doug
>
>
>
> *From:* Peter Pišljar [mailto:[email protected]]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 02, 2009 3:44 PM
> *To:* [email protected]
>
> *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] some information needed ....
>
>
>
> steve and james, thanks a lot.
>
> the tools i have ... a lot to work with wood, but not much to work with
> metal.
> sure i have a drill, but the shaft i plan to use is to thin for drilling i
> think. do you think just using a sleeve and some glue would work ? thats
> basicly how the gear wheel is usualy attached
> to the small dc motors right ?
>
> On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 9:21 PM, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> What tools do you have? If you can find a sleeve that fits around the shaft
> tight enough, you can slip it half way on, drill a hole through, and secure
> it with a simple bolt. Then, your shaft extension slips into the other end,
> and is secured the same way.
> If you want to make sure there is no play, goop the inside with epoxy
> before you put on the sleeve.
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 21:06:56 +0100
> Subject: Re: [TANKS] some information needed ....
> From: [email protected]
> To: [email protected]
>
>
> hello.
>
> thanks for the replies, but maybe i should define my question a little bit
> more.
>
> i know about my electronics, bout controler. yes i plan to use two motors.
> my only problem is building the drivetrain.
> i have idea how i want it to be (based on the tanks on this site). but i
> have more general problems, like atm:
> how to make drive shaft of my motor longer ? i would like to extend it a
> little, but have no idea how to efficently do this.
> duck tape idea doesnt count :) wleding is out of option.
>
> On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 8:27 PM, Thomas Lum <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >
> >here's my list of topics i would like to know more about :
> >
> >-- motors ? i saw everybody here's using big motors with a lot of
> >power (120W and more)
> > but your models are 1/6, so thats a LOT bigger. how could i like
> >calculate what torque would i need, what
> > rpm, for my tank. i currently have 2 stepper motors, with 50mN/m (i
> >think thats like 40inchlbs, not sure tho)
> > but they seem a little bit to small.
>
> First tip, it's easier for us to build on 1/6th scale because almost all
> the hard work has been done for us. Most know what works and what doesn't.
> If you blaze out into a different direction, you are going to have to buy
> and test a lot of things yourself. Your motors depend of your tank weight.
> Make your build modular so you can switch something out easily if it
> doesn't work.
>
>
> >-- drive shafts, coupling, connecting wheels.
> > basicly i have no idea how to do that. i know what i would need to
> >do in theory, but how exactly do you connect
> > another longer shaft on that small shaft of a dc motor ? (its too
> >small to drill thru or anything) ?
>
> Most of the time the motor has a shaft that you connect either a pulley or
> sprocket to. You then use belt or chain to attach that to either a second
> belt or pulley, or sometimes directly to the main axle shafts.
>
>
> how do
> > i connect non-powered wheels (the middle ones) so they can turn on
> >the saft,
>
> Bearings and lock collars
>
>
> and how to connect the
> > powered wheels so they cant turn on the shaft ?
>
> Usually you use set screws, keyed shaft or you have to fabricate something
> to mate the shaft to the wheel (I think the Cromwell, Tiger or Comet has a
> good pic of this)
>
>
> all little things
> >like this, basicly some building manuals, tutorials,
> > books, anythings with pictures would come in handy.
>
> Read every tank build on the website, that is a bible of building. Also
> look at the tanks that are old and still going. Cromwell, Comet, Tiger,
> Hetzer, SU-100, Bad Kitty, and a few more I am forgetting. Anyone (almost)
> can build a website tank that never goes to a battle (me for instance), but
> those tanks I mentioned are punished and still run every battle. They are a
> guide to what works well.
>
> Also anything Frank says is gospel.
>
>
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