hey. ok been in the hardware store, got all the drill taps and bits, but i couldnt find any suitable part of aluminium cylinder ... i would want something like 3cm in length and 1 - 1.5 cm diameter. any idea where could i get it ? like what for could be such parts of aluminium used for, where to look for it .
thanks. On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 4:54 PM, Doug Conn <[email protected]> wrote: > Yes, that’s it. You would use the lathe to bore a hole through the long > axis of the aluminum rod (end bore). That will ensure that hole is in the > center of the rod and that drive shaft and extender shafts are concentric. > > > > >> screwing tightly should hold shafts in place ? > > > > Well, there a lot of variables. It should work for small motors and modest > torques. I have to believe that it would hold much better than the glue > alternatives mentioned on the boards. If you can give your shafts a flat on > one side that would help. Aluminum is good material to start with. It drills > easily, is cheap, and easy to come by. It can also strip threads easily, so > go slow with the screws (always good advice J ). You can get taps as small > as about 1.5mm. Larger taps and set screws will probably be easier to work > with and hold better than smaller ones, however. Take a trip to your local > hardware store, see what they carry, and see what makes sense for the size > of part you are creating. Don’t forget to pick up set screws that match the > tap you select. > > > > - Doug > > > > > > *From:* Peter Pišljar [mailto:[email protected]] > *Sent:* Thursday, December 03, 2009 3:37 AM > > *To:* [email protected] > *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] some information needed .... > > > > thanks Doug. ok so what exactly would i need wood lathe for ? (as if wood > lathe is the thing you mount a piece of wood in (or something else of > course) and then start it, it rotates, and enables > you to work on material on all sides equaly ... ? > if i understod you correctly : > > ˇˇ hole for screw ˇˇ hole for screw > |------ ---------------------------- ---------| > | | | | | | > ---------------| |------------------ > ---------------| |------------------ > | ^hole dor shaft | ^hole for extender > |------------------------------------------------| > > > > this should work ? just screwing tughly should hold shafts in place ? > what kind of metal is best to work with =? (so i can drill it ...) how > small drill bits and taps is it possible to get ? 1mm ? 2 mm ? > > On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 11:13 PM, Doug Conn <[email protected]> wrote: > > You could probably make a small solid shaft coupler/extender using a wood > lathe (you said you are well equipped for wood). > > > > I would start with a piece of aluminum rod about 9mm diameter. In the > states, rod like that can be purchased inexpensively in a home improvement > store. Cut off a small piece , maybe 2 cm long. Will something that small > fit in your lathe ? If so, mount it and end bore a hole the same diameter as > your motor drive shaft. Then, drill a perpendicular hole near one end for a > set screw. Just drill until your perpendicular hole meets your axial hole. > You’ll need to drill the appropriate drill size and tap for the set screw. > Again, drill bits and taps (sometimes in a coordinated set) can be purchased > inexpensively at a hardware store. Tapping will be a little tricky because > the hole doesn’t go all the way through your coupler. What you really need > is a ‘blind tap’, but that’s a more specialized tool. If it were me, I’d > make due with a standard tap and then use a screw to finish out the final > threads where the tap can’t reach. > > > > I don’t know what goes on the other end of your coupler. Will it mount to > the outside of a small aluminum rod ? If not you could always repeat the > process above on the other end of your coupler to create something that > joins two shafts. > > > > Hope that helps. > > > > - Doug > > > > *From:* Peter Pišljar [mailto:[email protected]] > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 02, 2009 3:44 PM > *To:* [email protected] > > > *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] some information needed .... > > > > steve and james, thanks a lot. > > the tools i have ... a lot to work with wood, but not much to work with > metal. > sure i have a drill, but the shaft i plan to use is to thin for drilling i > think. do you think just using a sleeve and some glue would work ? thats > basicly how the gear wheel is usualy attached > to the small dc motors right ? > > On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 9:21 PM, whitney james <[email protected]> wrote: > > What tools do you have? If you can find a sleeve that fits around the shaft > tight enough, you can slip it half way on, drill a hole through, and secure > it with a simple bolt. Then, your shaft extension slips into the other end, > and is secured the same way. > If you want to make sure there is no play, goop the inside with epoxy > before you put on the sleeve. > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 21:06:56 +0100 > Subject: Re: [TANKS] some information needed .... > From: [email protected] > To: [email protected] > > > hello. > > thanks for the replies, but maybe i should define my question a little bit > more. > > i know about my electronics, bout controler. yes i plan to use two motors. > my only problem is building the drivetrain. > i have idea how i want it to be (based on the tanks on this site). but i > have more general problems, like atm: > how to make drive shaft of my motor longer ? i would like to extend it a > little, but have no idea how to efficently do this. > duck tape idea doesnt count :) wleding is out of option. > > On Wed, Dec 2, 2009 at 8:27 PM, Thomas Lum <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > >here's my list of topics i would like to know more about : > > > >-- motors ? i saw everybody here's using big motors with a lot of > >power (120W and more) > > but your models are 1/6, so thats a LOT bigger. how could i like > >calculate what torque would i need, what > > rpm, for my tank. i currently have 2 stepper motors, with 50mN/m (i > >think thats like 40inchlbs, not sure tho) > > but they seem a little bit to small. > > First tip, it's easier for us to build on 1/6th scale because almost all > the hard work has been done for us. Most know what works and what doesn't. > If you blaze out into a different direction, you are going to have to buy > and test a lot of things yourself. Your motors depend of your tank weight. > Make your build modular so you can switch something out easily if it > doesn't work. > > > >-- drive shafts, coupling, connecting wheels. > > basicly i have no idea how to do that. i know what i would need to > >do in theory, but how exactly do you connect > > another longer shaft on that small shaft of a dc motor ? (its too > >small to drill thru or anything) ? > > Most of the time the motor has a shaft that you connect either a pulley or > sprocket to. You then use belt or chain to attach that to either a second > belt or pulley, or sometimes directly to the main axle shafts. > > > how do > > i connect non-powered wheels (the middle ones) so they can turn on > >the saft, > > Bearings and lock collars > > > and how to connect the > > powered wheels so they cant turn on the shaft ? > > Usually you use set screws, keyed shaft or you have to fabricate something > to mate the shaft to the wheel (I think the Cromwell, Tiger or Comet has a > good pic of this) > > > all little things > >like this, basicly some building manuals, tutorials, > > books, anythings with pictures would come in handy. > > Read every tank build on the website, that is a bible of building. Also > look at the tanks that are old and still going. Cromwell, Comet, Tiger, > Hetzer, SU-100, Bad Kitty, and a few more I am forgetting. Anyone (almost) > can build a website tank that never goes to a battle (me for instance), but > those tanks I mentioned are punished and still run every battle. They are a > guide to what works well. > > Also anything Frank says is gospel. > > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > -- > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > ------------------------------ > > Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn > more.<http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slideid=1&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009> > > -- > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > -- > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
