I'd hesitate to describe it as "the best" method, but the drive we
created for my Valentine works very well. It's imune to paint goo and
provide very accurate tracking too.

http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T073/024-large.jpg

There are no custom built bits in it. The motor, drive wheel and
toothed belt are all standard parts.

On Jan 12, 4:12 am, Mike Mane <[email protected]> wrote:
> This may seem a bit off-topic, but what is the best method of powering  
> the traversal of the turret? It will probably be on wheels or  
> bearings, but what kind of motors and how should it be mobilized?
>
> —Mike Måne
>
> Message sent by way of mobile device
>
> On Jan 11, 2010, at 8:52 PM, copperhead <[email protected]>  
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Ahh - signal.
>
> > I was worried about that so I configured my turret to be "servo-less".
> > I have my servos mounted in the trunk ... and run the power for the
> > door lock and elevate motor to there for switching operations.
>
> > On Jan 10, 9:36 pm, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Using that method can cause noise and therefore may interfere with  
> >> the
> >> signal being transferred.
>
> >> Derek
> >> T065
>
> >> On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 8:28 PM, copperhead  
> >> <[email protected]>wrote:
>
> >>> How about using wheel bearings? I am working on my M3 Stuart (still)
> >>> and will be using them for my wiring going into the turret.
>
> >>> Jam a plastic tube up thru the center of the bearing to force  
> >>> contact
> >>> between a lead and the inner ring then use a band clamp to hold its
> >>> opposing lead to the outside.
>
> >>> You can stack multiple rings, because the plastic tube that goes  
> >>> thru
> >>> the middle of them is non conductive - just space each bearing out
> >>> enough to prevent contact.
>
> >>> - Martin H
>
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