My solution to the problem was to mount a large pulley (custom-made from sheets of thin plywood) centered under the turret (which rotates on a lazy-susan), and drive the pulley, and thus the turret rotation, with a toothed belt (salvaged from an inkjet printer) and a small gearmotor with a toothed-belt pulley on its output shaft. Since the turret traverse motor is fixed to the tank chassis, there's no slip- ring issue. A microswitch and a pin on the pulley provide a home position signal for microprocessor control.
There's a big hole in the center of the pulley to pass a coil cord through, or one could also mount a slip-ring set thereon. I find toothed-belt drive easier than a ring gear, the pulley was dead cheap and easy to build, and the belt engages enough pulley surface that it needn't even be toothed itself to avoid slipping. Regards, Steve On Jan 11, 11:12 pm, Mike Mane <[email protected]> wrote: > This may seem a bit off-topic, but what is the best method of powering > the traversal of the turret? It will probably be on wheels or > bearings, but what kind of motors and how should it be mobilized? > > —Mike Måne > > Message sent by way of mobile device > > On Jan 11, 2010, at 8:52 PM, copperhead <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > Ahh - signal. > > > I was worried about that so I configured my turret to be "servo-less". > > I have my servos mounted in the trunk ... and run the power for the > > door lock and elevate motor to there for switching operations. > > > On Jan 10, 9:36 pm, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Using that method can cause noise and therefore may interfere with > >> the > >> signal being transferred. > > >> Derek > >> T065 > > >> On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 8:28 PM, copperhead > >> <[email protected]>wrote: > > >>> How about using wheel bearings? I am working on my M3 Stuart (still) > >>> and will be using them for my wiring going into the turret. > > >>> Jam a plastic tube up thru the center of the bearing to force > >>> contact > >>> between a lead and the inner ring then use a band clamp to hold its > >>> opposing lead to the outside. > > >>> You can stack multiple rings, because the plastic tube that goes > >>> thru > >>> the middle of them is non conductive - just space each bearing out > >>> enough to prevent contact. > > >>> - Martin H > > >>> -- > >>> You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > >>> To post a message, send email to [email protected] > >>> To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > >>> Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat- > >>> Hide quoted text - > > >> - Show quoted text - > > -- > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > > To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat- > > [email protected] > > Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat > >
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