Changing the sprockets to 35 pitch would be a step backward. Bicycle chain is 42 pitch. I use a 41 pitch drive sprocket on the drive axle, 41 pitch chain, and leave the 42 pitch sprocket on the motor. Works fine for me. Others have changed to a 35 pitch chain, but that requires replacing the sprocket on the motor. 41 pitch is narrower (width wise) than 40 pitch and 42 pitch is narrower than 41 pitch. There is some left to right play using a 41 pitch chain on a 42 pitch sprocket (on the motor), but since both of my motors are mounted independently of each other I have a tensioner in place for each motor. I have had zero issues with the chain coming off even under hard loads.
Derek T065 On Sun, Jan 24, 2010 at 8:41 PM, Mark_123521 <[email protected]>wrote: > Dave: > > I bought these motors: > > http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-450-watt-brushless-electric-motor-9-tooth-chain-sprocket.html > > I did some testing and they produce 4.5 inch pounds torque per amp. > They are rated at 19 amps, so they will produce about 80 inch pounds > at full 450 watt rating. > > I am changing the sprockets to a heavier #35 chain. > > Mark > > On Jan 20, 1:53 pm, "[email protected]" > <[email protected]> wrote: > > Hi All > > > > Well my Tamiya completely failed to arrive =( So I have been studying > > the archives and the build pictures for ideas and to get some sort of > > reference on materials and how strength and lightness of build can be > > implemented. So my thoughts so far. > > > > Hull/Chassis = The base panel in 1/2"ply. Front rear and sides in > > 1/4". 1/4" Doublers to beef up corners and where the suspension ends > > fit in the hull sides. Formers to partition the space and add > > torsional rigidity to the hull. The formers will be 'holed' to reduce > > weight. > > > > Top = 4mm ply with 6mm doubler 'ring' for the hole where the turret > > will sit. > > > > Turret = 6mm Base and the rest in 3mm ply unless I bite the bullet and > > have ago at a fibreglass molding (possibly) > > > > Wheels = Wood, laminated for simple detail with the possibility of > > doing an ABS detail molding (possibly) I am going for the friction > > drive method with the 'belt' type tracks. > > > > Overall I intend to build the 'whole' without detail. If it gets that > > far and works then detail pieces can be added. > > > > Now I have been trawling for motors ideas but could do with a bit of a > > steer as in what are you using, where did you get it, are they readily > > available and this is within the UK please. I am looking for 12V > > motors and I have found some 12V ones but have no idea as to their > > physical size but I do know they aren't geared so this is also > > something that needs considering as space for gearing may be needed > > and this will have a bearing on the scale of the build and or the > > internal layout of the hull structure to suit. > > > > carry on sanding! > > > > Dave > > > > On Jan 19, 8:18 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Now that is a smart idea =D Along similar lines I import PCB patterns > > > into my circuit design software. Trace over it with the tracks and > > > then adjust or 'redesign' the circuit layout to suit my needs/ > > > preferences before getting 'my' version printed for toner transfer. I > > > have a scanner up in the attic I may dig it out and see what I can do. > > > > > regards > > > > > Dave > > > > > On Jan 19, 8:10 pm, "Morgan, John" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > I just scan in the sprues and then scale the scans up in CAD. I can > then trace them (in CAD) to make a pattern and then adjust it as necessary > due to materials, size etc. See my Sherman HVSS sprue attached. The higher > the resolution, the easier it is to scale. > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > John > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: [email protected] [mailto: > [email protected]] On Behalf Of [email protected] > > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:04 PM > > > > To: R/C Tank Combat > > > > Subject: [TANKS] Re: newbie alert! > > > > > > Thanks for all the info Chaps! > > > > > > I spy 'inexpensive' markers =D An hours running and firing seems > adequate. I presume that using PWM speed controllers would give a > significant increase, subject to driving style, in duration? I don't think I > can afford the PWM method anyway but out of interest...... > > > > > > With reference to 'tweaking' the scale of portions of the build to > suit hardware needs this was used quite a bit with some of the builds (R/C > Aircraft) to help with the 'moments' and fitting the glow motors. > > > > It's amazing what you can get away with........unless the local > 'rivet counter' happens to be in the area =D > > > > > > My Tamiya Challenger failed to arrive today and I had my digi > calipers, steel rule and protractor ready =D =( > > > > > > regards > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > On Jan 19, 7:20 pm, neroc <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Just popping my head up from the sweat and toil of working on > phil`s > > > > > Hetzer ;0) (To57 for those who dont know) . > > > > > A general ballpark answer to your battery question Dave , in the > > > > > battles I have been involved in where a 12v tank is used , in this > > > > > case my Marder ( To68 ) .One 18 Amp hour will easly last one hour > long > > > > > battle , possibly longer ,much depends on the way you battle > > > > > ,personaly I tend to speed to a safe place and then stay there till > i > > > > > see fit to move on. not everyone is the same . > > > > > I use pairs of 7 or 12 Amp hour batteries at 24 v in my Leopard ( > To51 > > > > > ) but if I build another Tank it will be designed to hold 18amp > hour > > > > > batteries because they can be charged quicker ( High amp chargers > > > > > dammage smaller AH batteries im told ). a rough price rule of thumb > is > > > > > £10 per 6 Amp hour at 12v Redarding fitting Paintball markers and > > > > > gravity feed trays into the turrets of 3 feet tanks , I just made > me > > > > > Leopard turret a little taller than it should be when I encounterd > > > > > this problem , not such a crime and the fella who dishes out the > > > > > designations is pretty cool about such things . this is a battling > > > > > hobby so if your creation looks like the chosen subject vehicle > then > > > > > thats good enough for the powers that be, thankfully . > > > > > > > Phil I am at a point of going to an enginering works to have To57`s > > > > > KTS sprockets made . i`ll get in touch . > > > > > > > Neil R > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 10:34 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > Hi Neil > > > > > > > > Thanks for the info. I was aware of the minimum 36" and it may > well > > > > > > be that I change my proposed scale. It is early days and I have > to > > > > > > also see what hardware I will be using in terms of motors/gearing > > > > > > which will give me part of the overall sizing to suit. Once I > have > > > > > > my Tamiya I will do an outline in my CAD package to also check > out > > > > > > the turret space with reference to fitting a marker and hopper > that > > > > > > can depress and elevate. This to will guide the scale selection. > > > > > > Building it large just seems right for a Challenger =D I will > > > > > > consider the points presented carefully though! > > > > > > > > I have been all over the R/C Tank Combat site, it's great! Very > > > > > > informative and entertaining with plenty of ideas to pick n mix. > My > > > > > > Dad was in the 10th Royal Hussars and I spent many a happy day > > > > > > during the school holidays running around the hangers and playing > in > > > > > > and on the armoured cars and being taken out for a run round the > > > > > > streets of SWindon =D BTW I am 43 =D > > > > > > > > Here's a question with vast parameters- > > > > > > > > Using a Tri-pac steering control with a 12V system of an > 'average' > > > > > > model tank what battery duration can I expect. I appreciate that > > > > > > there are many variables that will effect the answer but a very > > > > > > 'generalised' idea will do if possible just so I 'know'. I do > dabble > > > > > > in electronics and have a very successful 'voice modulator with > > > > > > sound to light' design that has been picked up by over 60 users > > > > > > either in kit, ready built of a complete free manual to show how > to > > > > > > build one including the PCB pattern to etch your own. If your now > > > > > > wondering - This is for the Dalek builders to do 'the' voice and > > > > > > drive the dome lights in time with the voice. =D > > > > > > > > Here's to the Kings Own! > > > > > > > > regards > > > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 9:06 pm, neroc <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > The UK members are always pleased to welcome new builders and > > > > > > > battlers, You will also find excellent help and advice is on > hand > > > > > > > from experienced builders across the globe. > > > > > > > > > I dont know if you are aware but you are not required to build > in > > > > > > > 1/6 th scale, a three foot minimum tank is all that is required > as > > > > > > > long as the tanks dimensions fit to ( rough ) scale . > > > > > > > A 54.5 inch long challenger will be a cumbersome project to > > > > > > > handle during all stages of building , maintenance and > transport . > > > > > > > > > If you havent already I would advise you to take a good look > > > > > > > around the rc tank combat site , take a look at the UK battles > > > > > > > ,Battlers and Assets , the UK team is called the `KOR` ( Kings > Own > > > > > > > Regiment ) > > > > > > > > > Wakefeild ! Pete and me are just down the street :0] > > > > > > > > > Neil R > > > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 2:07 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > > > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Chaps > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for the welcome =D I live just outside Wakefield on > the > > > > > > > > south side. My Tamiya was despatched today so hopefully > tomorrow > > > > > > > > I can start having a look. I use Qcad which is a linux based > CAD > > > > > > > > package which outputs files as DXF's. I have just used it to > > > > > > > > draw round and scale up from a side view of a challenger > found > > > > > > > > on the web. Using the 1/6th scale and the specs from a > militaria > > > > > > > > site it looks like the main body will be- > > > > > > > > > > 1381mm (54.5")long > > > > > > > > 580mm (23") wide > > > > > > > > 431mm (17")tall inc Turret > > > > > > > > Gun Barrel from front of mantle 787mm (31") Main wheels > around > > > > > > > > 120-138mm (4.75-5 3/8") > > > > > > > > > > A bit big =D > > > > > > > > > > I intend mostly Ply structure. Working suspension, Tri-pact > > > > > > > > Speed controller, and a modified paintball blowpipe (as seen > on > > > > > > > > some ones > > > > > > > > build) unless I find a dirt cheap semi-auto marker. Motors? > > > > > > > > Cheap but durable =D Track system- I reckon the ex-tread mill > > > > > > > > would be easiest to succeed with. End objective? Kicking > Tiger > > > > > > > > Buttock =D All this on a tight budget. > > > > > > > > > > regards > > > > > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 11:09 am, Peter Arundel <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > So, where are you, Dave? If you're close to manchester or > Stoke, I will be happy to drop in with a tank for you to play with. > > > > > > > > > > > Pete. > > > > > > > > > > > > Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 14:48:35 -0800 > > > > > > > > > > Subject: [TANKS] newbie alert! > > > > > > > > > > From: [email protected] > > > > > > > > > > To: [email protected] > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi All > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm based in the UK and stumbled across tank combat > whilst > > > > > > > > > > researching speed controllers for another project. I have > > > > > > > > > > ordered a 1/35- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text -... > > > > read more » > > -- > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > To post a message, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
