A bit more done. The square is 200mm square for reference. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/4309247415_120a00201b_b.jpg
regard Dave On Jan 25, 3:58 am, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote: > Changing the sprockets to 35 pitch would be a step backward. Bicycle chain > is 42 pitch. I use a 41 pitch drive sprocket on the drive axle, 41 pitch > chain, and leave the 42 pitch sprocket on the motor. Works fine for me. > Others have changed to a 35 pitch chain, but that requires replacing the > sprocket on the motor. 41 pitch is narrower (width wise) than 40 pitch and > 42 pitch is narrower than 41 pitch. There is some left to right play using > a 41 pitch chain on a 42 pitch sprocket (on the motor), but since both of my > motors are mounted independently of each other I have a tensioner in place > for each motor. I have had zero issues with the chain coming off even under > hard loads. > > Derek > T065 > > On Sun, Jan 24, 2010 at 8:41 PM, Mark_123521 > <[email protected]>wrote: > > > Dave: > > > I bought these motors: > > >http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-450-watt-brushless-electri... > > > I did some testing and they produce 4.5 inch pounds torque per amp. > > They are rated at 19 amps, so they will produce about 80 inch pounds > > at full 450 watt rating. > > > I am changing the sprockets to a heavier #35 chain. > > > Mark > > > On Jan 20, 1:53 pm, "[email protected]" > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hi All > > > > Well my Tamiya completely failed to arrive =( So I have been studying > > > the archives and the build pictures for ideas and to get some sort of > > > reference on materials and how strength and lightness of build can be > > > implemented. So my thoughts so far. > > > > Hull/Chassis = The base panel in 1/2"ply. Front rear and sides in > > > 1/4". 1/4" Doublers to beef up corners and where the suspension ends > > > fit in the hull sides. Formers to partition the space and add > > > torsional rigidity to the hull. The formers will be 'holed' to reduce > > > weight. > > > > Top = 4mm ply with 6mm doubler 'ring' for the hole where the turret > > > will sit. > > > > Turret = 6mm Base and the rest in 3mm ply unless I bite the bullet and > > > have ago at a fibreglass molding (possibly) > > > > Wheels = Wood, laminated for simple detail with the possibility of > > > doing an ABS detail molding (possibly) I am going for the friction > > > drive method with the 'belt' type tracks. > > > > Overall I intend to build the 'whole' without detail. If it gets that > > > far and works then detail pieces can be added. > > > > Now I have been trawling for motors ideas but could do with a bit of a > > > steer as in what are you using, where did you get it, are they readily > > > available and this is within the UK please. I am looking for 12V > > > motors and I have found some 12V ones but have no idea as to their > > > physical size but I do know they aren't geared so this is also > > > something that needs considering as space for gearing may be needed > > > and this will have a bearing on the scale of the build and or the > > > internal layout of the hull structure to suit. > > > > carry on sanding! > > > > Dave > > > > On Jan 19, 8:18 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Now that is a smart idea =D Along similar lines I import PCB patterns > > > > into my circuit design software. Trace over it with the tracks and > > > > then adjust or 'redesign' the circuit layout to suit my needs/ > > > > preferences before getting 'my' version printed for toner transfer. I > > > > have a scanner up in the attic I may dig it out and see what I can do. > > > > > regards > > > > > Dave > > > > > On Jan 19, 8:10 pm, "Morgan, John" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > I just scan in the sprues and then scale the scans up in CAD. I can > > then trace them (in CAD) to make a pattern and then adjust it as necessary > > due to materials, size etc. See my Sherman HVSS sprue attached. The higher > > the resolution, the easier it is to scale. > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > John > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > > From: [email protected] [mailto: > > [email protected]] On Behalf Of [email protected] > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:04 PM > > > > > To: R/C Tank Combat > > > > > Subject: [TANKS] Re: newbie alert! > > > > > > Thanks for all the info Chaps! > > > > > > I spy 'inexpensive' markers =D An hours running and firing seems > > adequate. I presume that using PWM speed controllers would give a > > significant increase, subject to driving style, in duration? I don't think I > > can afford the PWM method anyway but out of interest...... > > > > > > With reference to 'tweaking' the scale of portions of the build to > > suit hardware needs this was used quite a bit with some of the builds (R/C > > Aircraft) to help with the 'moments' and fitting the glow motors. > > > > > It's amazing what you can get away with........unless the local > > 'rivet counter' happens to be in the area =D > > > > > > My Tamiya Challenger failed to arrive today and I had my digi > > calipers, steel rule and protractor ready =D =( > > > > > > regards > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > On Jan 19, 7:20 pm, neroc <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > Just popping my head up from the sweat and toil of working on > > phil`s > > > > > > Hetzer ;0) (To57 for those who dont know) . > > > > > > A general ballpark answer to your battery question Dave , in the > > > > > > battles I have been involved in where a 12v tank is used , in this > > > > > > case my Marder ( To68 ) .One 18 Amp hour will easly last one hour > > long > > > > > > battle , possibly longer ,much depends on the way you battle > > > > > > ,personaly I tend to speed to a safe place and then stay there till > > i > > > > > > see fit to move on. not everyone is the same . > > > > > > I use pairs of 7 or 12 Amp hour batteries at 24 v in my Leopard ( > > To51 > > > > > > ) but if I build another Tank it will be designed to hold 18amp > > hour > > > > > > batteries because they can be charged quicker ( High amp chargers > > > > > > dammage smaller AH batteries im told ). a rough price rule of thumb > > is > > > > > > £10 per 6 Amp hour at 12v Redarding fitting Paintball markers and > > > > > > gravity feed trays into the turrets of 3 feet tanks , I just made > > me > > > > > > Leopard turret a little taller than it should be when I encounterd > > > > > > this problem , not such a crime and the fella who dishes out the > > > > > > designations is pretty cool about such things . this is a battling > > > > > > hobby so if your creation looks like the chosen subject vehicle > > then > > > > > > thats good enough for the powers that be, thankfully . > > > > > > > Phil I am at a point of going to an enginering works to have To57`s > > > > > > KTS sprockets made . i`ll get in touch . > > > > > > > Neil R > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 10:34 pm, "[email protected]" > > > > > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > Hi Neil > > > > > > > > Thanks for the info. I was aware of the minimum 36" and it may > > well > > > > > > > be that I change my proposed scale. It is early days and I have > > to > > > > > > > also see what hardware I will be using in terms of motors/gearing > > > > > > > which will give me part of the overall sizing to suit. Once I > > have > > > > > > > my Tamiya I will do an outline in my CAD package to also check > > out > > > > > > > the turret space with reference to fitting a marker and hopper > > that > > > > > > > can depress and elevate. This to will guide the scale selection. > > > > > > > Building it large just seems right for a Challenger =D I will > > > > > > > consider the points presented carefully though! > > > > > > > > I have been all over the R/C Tank Combat site, it's great! Very > > > > > > > informative and entertaining with plenty of ideas to pick n mix. > > My > > > > > > > Dad was in the 10th Royal Hussars and I spent many a happy day > > > > > > > during the school holidays running around the hangers and playing > > in > > > > > > > and on the armoured cars and being taken out for a run round the > > > > > > > streets of SWindon =D BTW I am 43 =D > > > > > > > > Here's a question with vast parameters- > > > > > > > > Using a Tri-pac steering control with a 12V system of an > > 'average' > > > > > > > model tank what battery duration can I expect. I appreciate that > > > > > > > there are many variables that will effect the answer but a very > > > > > > > 'generalised' idea will do if possible just so I 'know'. I do > > dabble > > > > > > > in electronics and have a very successful 'voice modulator with > > > > > > > sound to light' design that has been picked up by over 60 users > > > > > > > either in kit, ready built of a complete free manual to show how > > to > > > > > > > build one including the PCB pattern to etch your own. If your now > > > > > > > wondering - This is for the Dalek builders to do 'the' voice and > > > > > > > drive the dome lights in time with the voice. =D > > > > > > > > Here's to the Kings Own! > > > > > > > > regards > > > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 9:06 pm, neroc <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > The UK members are always pleased to welcome new builders and > > > > > > > > battlers, You will also find excellent help and advice is on > > hand > > > > > > > > from experienced builders across the globe. > > > > > > > > > I dont know if you are aware but you are not required to build > > in > > > > > > > > 1/6 th scale, a three foot minimum tank is all that is required > > as > > > > > > > > long as the tanks dimensions fit to ( rough ) scale . > > > > > > > > A 54.5 inch long challenger will be a cumbersome project to > > > > > > > > handle during all stages of building , maintenance and > > transport . > > > > > > > > > If you havent already I would advise you to take a good look > > > > > > > > around the rc tank combat site , take a look at the UK battles > > > > > > > > ,Battlers and Assets , the UK team is called the `KOR` ( Kings > > Own > > > > > > > > Regiment ) > > > > > > > > > Wakefeild ! Pete and me are just down the street :0] > > > > > > > > > Neil R > > > > > > > > > On Jan 18, 2:07 pm, "[email protected]" > > ... > > read more » -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
