Chris B: Ok, at this stage, its easy to make them taller. Mine are .25 inch wide, thinking of making them .1875 wide.
Ben: Ok, I looked up your old posts. I see how you are using the screws. Mark On Jun 13, 6:14 pm, "Chris. b" <[email protected]> wrote: > IMO guide teeth should be atleast 3/4" - 1". > > Chris. b > > On Jun 14, 10:10 am, Mark_123522 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Ben: > > Do the connecting links articulate on the screws? > > What pins the center track guide? Do the screws go all the way to the > > center of the track? > > How long are the screws? > > > Your right Ben: track built this way is 100% repairable / rebuildable. > > > The Guide teeth are .5 inch tall, you think they should be taller? How > > much? > > > Thanks for the input! > > Mark > > > On Jun 13, 5:42 pm, Ben Holko <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Really good work Mark. As long as you use a material for the pins that is > > > very hard, it should be ok. An occasional bent pin can be replaced fairly > > > easily by the looks of things. For my M113 tracks I used 4mm high-tensile > > > cap screws. > > > > The guide teeth are not long enough IMHO, granted it's a prototype. > > > > Ben > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: [email protected] > > > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mark_123522 > > > Sent: Monday, 14 June 2010 3:51 AM > > > To: R/C Tank Combat > > > Subject: [TANKS] Half Metal Tracks _ Pictures of the Prototype > > > > All: > > > > Here are pictures of my metal track (Generally patterened from M60 > > > track). > > > I was looking to use aluminum for the tread segments, but for this > > > prototype, I used PVC plastic. > > > The segments are .25 X .75 long X 1.5 wide. It looks like the drive lug > > > spacing is too close, so I'll increase the tread length from .75 to 1 > > > inch. > > > The pins for this prototype are brass, but stainless steel will be used > > > later. > > > The pins are .125 inch, and will be held in place with tiny, .125" > > > retaining clips ($6 per 100) and a groove on each end of the pin. > > > The PVC is plenty strong, and rubber pads will glue well to PVC, also PVC > > > is a good bearing material. > > > The alternative is to use aluminum, and cut a slot to glue the rubber pad > > > in. > > > > It looks like it will take about 1 hour per inch of track to build (I > > > have all manual machine tools). > > > It looks like it will cost about $.80 per inch of track. > > > > The track is guite flexable in two directions (forward flex and back > > > flex), but very rigid in all other directions. > > > > Design > > > drawing:http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/Track_Array4.jpg > > > >http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0933.jpg > > > >http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0935.jpg > > > > Very flexable:http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0936.jpg > > > >http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0939.jpg > > > >http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0938.jpg > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. > > > To post a message, send email to [email protected] To > > > unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] > > > Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat-Hidequoted > > > text - > > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
