If you take a look at my idler wheels on the blog page, they have the thinnest section of all the wheels (3mm in parts) I wouldn't recommend going that thin for high stress parts. The other day I noticed the idler is cracked along this thin section due in-part to a bubble void. I would keep smoothcast 305 to at least 5mm. The guide teeth, road wheels and drive sprockets are all holding up fine. As far as tinting the resin, go as dark as you can, for the road wheels if your casting the entire piece in one go tint the resin to black (or near enough) so when the paint wears off (10 mins of run time!) it is at least still dark and not stark white...
As I'm not rebuilding my idler wheels (tedious!) ill try using a high stress resin like something from the "task" series, if that fails I'll be getting them cast in aluminium. (any takers!?) The interest within Australia seems to come and go, I know there was a few blokes a while back but they seem to have disappeared. The armortek mob seem to have a few in AUS, but I think they look down on us blokes building things ourselves! Nice pick the JagdPanther, I have false started one so many times its not funny. Maybe next after my stug I'll pick it back up. Chris. b -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
