Next installment in the Cromwell rebuild - Roadwheel's

The roadwheels on the Cromwell are built up from plywood disks.  They are 
wrapped in a cork/rubber composite material (McMaster# 94545K57) that 
provides cushioning.  The bearings are Oilite bushings pressed into the 
wheels and ride on 1/2" axle bolts (lawnmower wheel bolts).  The wheels 
have proven very durable and all ten are still on one piece.  A minor issue 
is that the cork/rubber wrapping tends to come loose here and there but an 
reapplication of Goop adhesive fixes things up for several years.  A less 
than minor issue is that the Oilite bushings and axles will collect gunk 
between them and tend to lock the bushing to the axles.  When this happens, 
the wood wheels will start to turn on the bushing themselves.  This isn't 
has bad as it sounds because I've learned that there's very little added 
friction of wood on Oilite versus Oilite on steel axle.  Net result is no 
appreciable loss in function.

This is one of the axle bolts and a couple of bushings.  Note the gunk that 
collects on the axle.  This axle was actually cleaned a bit so I could 
remove the bushings off of it.  A concern I had when I first built the 
Cromwell was whether any of the axle bolts would bend where the thread 
stops and the axle section starts.  This proved not to be an issue, all the 
bolts where straight and true.

<https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1PWWeVeNRFI/UpNkElU_E3I/AAAAAAAAAW0/Lanq5iDfPQc/s1600/2013-11-24+13.43.02-B.jpg>

To address the bushing issue, I decided to re-bearing the wheels with the 
same 1/2" flanged bearings used in the hull that hold the suspension arms 
in place.  On the right is an original wheel and the left modified with the 
new bearings.  I'm thinking of using some sort of cap to cover the bearing 
to keep goo out.

<https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A4x_e9o4ihU/UpNlChQPigI/AAAAAAAAAW8/E9at2yOLz5U/s1600/2013-11-24+13.40.29-B.jpg>

To drill out the wheels for the new bearings required some very precise 
drilling.  Do do this I made this jig that holds the wheels centered to the 
drill press.  The wheels have a 5/8" though hole, so using a 5"8" bit, a 
hole was drilled into the plywood and a 5/8" dowel was glued into place.

<https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BS6HYvYLjvA/UpNl2S0R4VI/AAAAAAAAAXE/2Ugbb9Px8rM/s1600/2013-11-24+13.42.03-B.jpg>

A wheel on the jig being drilled out.

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NLSsmsVFupY/UpNmGj19nBI/AAAAAAAAAXM/-ySNPiBnJCI/s1600/2013-11-24+14.09.58-B.jpg>

Sometimes the cork/rubber wrapping gets loose.  In this case, the entire 
piece was thrown off (actually a rare thing to happen).  The old piece 
(which was saved at the battle field) has since been glued back on.  In the 
past, I would have maybe glued new material on but I am currently out of 
stock on that item.

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S8dMOqO0Q7o/UpNmYDB3xtI/AAAAAAAAAXU/H9M5nsQGFKc/s1600/2013-11-24+13.41.41-B.jpg>

This particular wheel showed the most damage.  It was located right before 
one of the rear drive sprockets.  Note that only one internal side is worn. 
 None of the other wheels showed damage as severe as this and most had very 
little wear.  I'm guessing that something got wedged into the track at one 
point and ground this wheel a bit.  This wheel is still perfectly 
functional and will be re-used.  The damaged section is getting a liberal 
coat of Titebond II and it will be re-positioned at the center where it 
will experience the least lateral load.

<https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A6l8hunuOt8/UpNm8gP_72I/AAAAAAAAAXc/MA-J9dxlVe8/s1600/2013-11-24+13.41.25-B.jpg>

Next installment, suspension springing...

Steve Tyng


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