Hi Gary, You did say you're using the neutral, so I'm assuming you've got the 5-jaw socket and meter (Form 12S). You also need to make sure the meter itself is non-detented. Once you reconfigure the socket to match the one shown in David's reference you should be good to go. Not sure which aspect(s) of "utility grade" you need. I'll assume you mean "revenue grade" accuracy. The generally accepted threshold for this is +/-2% overall. A lot of analog meters (most) are not certified as "revenue grade" when running in the "backward" direction. Forget about "certified", they simply are all over the map with accuracy tolerance in the backward direction. For this reason, many were disqualified for use in Net Metering applications. Since your use is technically measuring the Net Generation, your accuracy may be off... Not as far off as some inverter manufacturers' displays have been in the past, but still possibly quite a bit off, relatively speaking. Think in terms of up to +/-5%. Don't know if this matters for your purposes or not, but I thought I'd throw it out there so you don't have to go all the way through the learning curve by yourself. Lonely curve, that one... If Net Generation accuracy is critical, you have three fine choices and many that aren't so fine. 1) The obvious "easy" one is to get confirmation that your meter is certified Bi-Directional &/or qualified/certified for Net Metering. Occupants of Meter Meter Neverland are particularly paranoid person-objects. Gaining a qualified confirmation of said information may take some sleuthing. Don't bother trying to get information from GE. Start with the vendor who sold it to you. If you have friends who work in the meter shop of the local electric utility, you might want to talk with them. Hint: If you get a blank stare from the meter guy when you say "Net Meter".... Just smile, excuse yourself, and go get a donut. 2) If #1 doesn't pan out, find a meter that does and use it. 3) Use two meters and do some subtraction. Pray for Sun! Matt Lafferty
_____ From: David Brearley Is it a Form 12-S meter? If not, that's the reason its not working. Here's an article you can refer to: http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg16_QandA_3 <http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg16_QandA_3&search=> &search= On 1/28/10 2:57 PM, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote: I am using an analog GE kwh meter on an outback system with battery backup to a protected loads panel. The AC in to the inverter is attached to the bottom of one leg of the meter and the AC out of the inverter is connected to the top of the other leg. This should give me an accurate record of just the production from the system. The idea is that the AC IN that will power the protected loads panel at night will come in the bottom of one leg and turn the meter backwards then exit through the top of the meter going forward thus cancelling those kwh. out. I have a neutral hooked to the meter because I am using it to record 120V but I am not getting accurate readings with this configuration. Any suggestions on metering in this case? I need a utility grade kwh meter.
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