Hello Daniel,

With such an expensive battery, I would not recommend trying to use the 
controllers you mentioned. The voltages are wrong and, more importantly, 
temperature compensation and automatic EQ will damage your battery. To date, 
there are no PV solar charge controllers on the market that provide the ideal 
profile for LFP battery charging. But, you can get close with some. We use Blue 
Sky Energy and Midnite Classics for all our Lithium-ion systems. No need for 
you to invent something new. 

I might be offering TMI here but, you asked. When you reduce the charge voltage 
to less than the potential voltage of the bank, you will begin discharging. As 
soon as there is an equilibrium of voltage, your controller will maintain a CV 
float charge on the battery as well as provide power to loads. Of course, this 
is how all battery charging works but something different happens with LFP 
batteries.

With this float voltage, you will see an oscillation of charging and 
discharging because LFP batteries have such a narrow voltage range compared to 
a charge controllers regulation. Just 0.05 volts will make the difference here. 
This can begin to unbalance the bank because efficiency of the cells is not 
exact; some absorbing, some not based on voltage. I have studied this but it's 
not a problem since all the all the systems we have designed use PV solar 
power. During the next charge cycle, the battery voltage will rise above the 
balancer voltage (our systems use 3.55V/cell) and bring up the lower cells.  
For our systems, I program a CV (3.6V/cell as I use LFMP batteries) for about 
20 to 30 minutes. This is normally long enough to allow any higher capacity 
cells to catch up to the lower ones but due to the low voltage (LFMP can be 
charged up to 3.8V/cell) no cells are 100% charged. In fact, the charge 
parameters are specifically set to prevent 100% charge to provide optimum life. 
  

You said when you hit your target voltage (3.65/cell) you are stopping the 
charge. At that point the LFP battery is not fully charged and that is good for 
the life of the cells. However, unless your balancers are starting at a much 
lower voltage, they won’t have any time to do their job. This is because 
charging LFP batteries you are always in the bulk mode at a voltage much lower 
than your cut-off setpoint. During the last 5% or so, the voltage will rise 
quickly, thus no time to balance.

The way to “blow up” a battery is apply too high a voltage and/or go beyond 
100% absorption thus creating excessive internal heat (again, like all 
batteries). Keep voltages low while you experiment and never leave a CV bulk or 
absorb voltage on the battery.

Let me know if you have more questions about LFP batteries. I’m looking forward 
to the coming price reductions where this technology can become mainstream as 
the benefits are far superior to lead acid technology. Primarily 40% faster 
charging, always using the full current available and never a need to fully 
charge. Hopefully some RE equipment manufacturers will see this coming 
potential and design suitable chargers.

Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems



On Aug 17, 2015, at 3:29 PM, Daniel Young <[email protected]> wrote:

Hello Wrenches,
 
I’ve been trying to think through how I can mate some lower cost charge 
controllers (prostar 15A 24v PWM units, or the new 30A Midnite solar Brat) to 
some 8s LiFePo battery banks.
 
As I understand it, lithium batteries meant to be charged to around 3.65V per 
cell (29.2V for the 8 cell bank) and then the charge is terminated, not put 
into a float mode.
 
Assuming I use a PCM to protect the batteries, so that each cell has a 
balancing function and also over/under voltage protection. Would the battery 
bank accept a simple charge controller that in essence, charged to 3.65V/cell, 
then backed down to a float voltage that was lower than it’s resting voltage, 
say 3.3V/cell. In theory at that voltage, there would be little/no charge 
current going to the batteries. Or would the cells still take in a small amount 
of power at these voltages and start to overcharge/degrade?
 
Again, I’d plan to have a full PCM circuit protecting cells and balancing them, 
but I’d like to have a good way to charge the batteries with solar (right now 
I’m shooting for using a 72cell module and 24V nominal LiFePo battery stack, so 
maybe there is another way that I can use, but I’ve not decided to buy any 
batteries I am ok with accidently blowing up if I’m wrongJ).
 
With Regards,
 
Daniel Young,
NABCEP Certified PV Installation ProfessionalTM: Cert #031508-90


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