Thank you, I appreciate the information. I will check this out and send
it along to the inspecting company.  Chris

On 2017-04-11 09:46, August Goers wrote:

> Hi Chris, 
> 
> I've contacted Ideal about the suitability for their copper crimp connectors 
> to be used in outdoor locations in approved junction boxes. Their response 
> was that they are listed to UL 486C and are designed to be used in approved 
> outdoor boxes. I'll forward the email to you off list. 
> 
> That said, they do not have the dielectric silicone grease that an outdoor 
> wire nut has and if a J-box fills with water then there could be a potential 
> fault between adjacent conductors or to ground. 
> 
> August 
> 
> FROM: RE-wrenches [mailto:[email protected]] ON 
> BEHALF OF [email protected]
> SENT: Monday, April 10, 2017 4:45 PM
> TO: RE-wrenches <[email protected]>
> SUBJECT: Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad? 
> 
> I haven't seen a reply regarding the NEC requirement (by some AHJs), that all 
> of these connectors, except waterproof connectors cannot be used in outside 
> JBs.   Has anyone else run into this? Thanks for any insight.  Chris
> 
> On 2017-04-10 15:48, [email protected] wrote: 
> 
> Good discussion here. I will not rule out loose connections entirely but I 
> will say that our installers know that can be an issue and really tighten 
> their connections. I like William's suggestion of fabricating an MC-type 
> connector at the PV Wire to THWN transition. At least I presume that's what 
> he's suggesting. Indeed we've moved away from the screw-type Polaris and are 
> not interested in the old-fashioned wire nut. We're 100% Sunpower and they 
> recommend the Buchannon's so that's what we're installing today. However, I'm 
> going to investigate the Miller method. William has never led me astray! 
> 
> Eric Stikes 
> 
> SunHarvest 
> 
> --------- Original Message --------- 
> 
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?
> From: "William Miller" <[email protected]>
> Date: 4/8/17 2:48 pm
> To: "RE-wrenches" <[email protected]>
> 
> Wrenches: 
> 
> I am wondering why the proliferation of splices in PV leads?  We all know 
> splices are a weak link.  
> 
> We allow only one connection between a module and the feeder destination-- be 
> it a combiner, inverter or optimizer-- and it is an MC connector, one side of 
> which is factory-made and provided by the module manufacturer.  
> 
> If one plans and pulls PV circuits with forethought, splices should not be 
> necessary.    
> 
> If anyone wants to know more about how this can be accomplished, look at our 
> web site or contact me off list.  
> 
> William 
> 
> On Apr 8, 2017, at 10:05 AM, Glenn Burt <[email protected]> wrote: 
> 
> It is also worth noting that many of the SMA installation manuals 
> specifically say do not use wire nuts on DC wiring. 
> Of course choosing to ignore the manufacturers installation instructions 
> would be a NEC violation. 
> 
> -------------------------
> 
> FROM: Drake
> SENT: ‎4/‎8/‎2017 12:10
> TO: RE-wrenches
> SUBJECT: Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad? 
> 
> At 01:35 PM 4/6/2017, you wrote: 
> 
> Recently we interfaced with another solar install firm that has gone back to 
> wire nuts due to this same problem. 
> 
> Wire nuts have the advantage of holding the wires tight with a spring. The 
> spring follows the cold flow of the copper over the years. A screw type 
> connection does not. 
> 
> When I service an old breaker box, usually the wires are loose under the 
> screw connections, especially on the neutral and grounding bars. Often they 
> are very loose, and I bet that the screws were tight after the initial 
> installation of the equipment. 
> 
> On old industrial control equipment, I've learned the hard way to tighten all 
> screws before doing anything in the box, as wires are prone to fall out of 
> the loose screw connections. Again, these connections have the weakness of 
> being held by terminal screws, with no spring to follow the cold flow of the 
> metal. 
> 
> With wire nuts, it can be a bit tricky to know if you have a good connection, 
> as the connection is hidden under the plastic cap. It is good to pull hard on 
> each wire separately to be sure it is securely under the spring. It is 
> crucial never to mix copper and aluminum under a wire nut unless it is one 
> specifically designed for the purpose. Unless specifically listed, all out 
> door wire nuts should be in a weather proof box, and preferably taped. 
> 
> Drake Chamberlin
> _Athens Electric LLC_
> _OH License 44810_
> _CO License 3773_
> _NABCEP Certified Solar PV _
> _740-448-7328_
> http://athens-electric.com/ [1]
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