Mac:

Tile roofs rely on the underpayment or sub-roof for water-tight integrity. The 
tile is just UV and fire protection and aesthetic. 

In California , after a few years the sub-roof, which is usually roofing felt, 
becomes brittle and powdery. Any pitched roof needs down-slope overlapping, 
especially if caulk won’t stick on powdery surfaces. If you try to seal 
fasteners by  sliding new paper under old it tears. Plus battens interfere. If 
you try to caulk it does not stick. I have verified this condition with many 
qualified roofers and solar contractors. 

We remove tile, battens and sub-roof from entire roof plane. We set round 
stanchions on a 3’x3’ square of high quality new paper. We provide an Oatey 
flashing to work in with the paper. The roofer works in new paper, battens and 
then top flashes the tile. Wide base galvanized top flashings are used for flat 
tile and aluminum malleable top flashings for barrel tile. 

Once the roof is rebuilt we set the rail and remaining equipment. 

This sounds like a lot of work but consider the cost of a leak.

We have never had a tile roof leak and we won’t ever. I retired from all roof 
installs this year. We’ve got two jobs in the pipeline and that’s it. In 35 + 
years we’ve had one roof leak. 

William Miller
www.millersolar.com

> On Aug 18, 2021, at 9:12 AM, Mac Lewis <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello Wrenches,
> 
> Im looking for recommendations on the best way to mount solar on tile roofs.  
> We don't have too many tile roofs in our area and admittedly we are afraid of 
> them.   I know some of you are probably doing this all of the time. What is 
> your favorite way to approach a tile roof?  Hooks or tile replacement or 
> other?  Any advantages to specific brands?  
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> 
> Mac Lewis
> 
> "Yo solo sé que no sé nada." -Sócrates
> 
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