The Australian
Dreamtime myth becomes realty
 By ANNIKA PRIEST
 11jan00

 AMONG the new apartment blocks of the East Perth Development
 Estate lies a tribute to the foreshore as it once was, where the
 Nyungah tribes met and camped, fished and hunted tortoise.

 Beneath buildings of metal and glass and banners proclaiming
 "Apartments, available now", between piles of rubble, among the
 clangs and shouts of construction, nestles a reminder of how the
 river was once viewed.

 A tiled path runs along a meandering stream, broken every now
 and again by a stone tortoise squatting in its shallow waters. This
 leads to a man-made lake.

 As you follow the path along you pass through a tunnel; along
 one side are Aboriginal words for swimming, tortoise, and path.
 On the opposite side are English words describing the
 environment and explaining European interaction with it.

 Walking through a second tunnel you find more words on a wall,
 this time a poem dedicated to the land's white history � a
 gold-mining settlement, and then an industrial centre with a
 power station and gasworks.

 Just as this land once sustained the Nyungah people, so too did it
 sustain the colonists. Now it sustains interior designers,
 architects and lawyers.

 The Swan River has been part of Nyungah spiritual life since the
 Dreaming, when they say its twists were created by the rainbow
 serpent Waugal. This makes the river and its surrounds a sacred
 site for the Nyungah. Aboriginal elder Robert Bropho says the
 river "represents sadness, enjoyment, tears of our first mother,
 and all the suffering and deaths that occurred from then until
 now".

 Now the serpent faces another body blow. The expanse of river
 which the old Swan Brewery site overlooks is said to be the belly
 of the snake � the life-giving reproductive organs. Plans for a
 museum and an art gallery there have fallen by the wayside as
 tycoons make plans for their airconditioned homes.

 The hunt for tortoise is replaced by the hunt for prime real
 estate.

 Annika Priest is a journalism graduate




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